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Modifying Upper for M-LOK

27K views 88 replies 13 participants last post by  Biff1212 
#1 ·
Just finished milling off the side and bottom rails on my XCR. I'm just waiting for the specs on the M-LOK slots before I turn this thing into swiss cheese.
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#46 ·
Dodge had a solenoid operated reverse hood scoop to suck in air at the base of the windshield where air pressure is the highest. They used to make some wicked stuff. Maybe AMC had it too?
 
#58 ·
The ultimate in stoplight intimidation.

God I can't wait to get back into cars. I started to get into very mild offroad stuff a few years back when a deal kinda landed in my lap, then realized the advice of a certain someone here was way too true....you got to pay to play. In not too long I expect i'll be able to start another toy, the right way, and I don't know if it's gonna be a car or a truck. I love goin' fast but I also love goin' everywhere. Hell, I'd love to go everywhere fast.
 
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#47 ·
So help me out here. Looking at the keymod upper on the XCR-L with the buried gas block--it looks to me as if the gas block is too close to clear a keymod accessory? Even if you placed the accessory out past the gas block, how would you get the barrel out with said accessory in place? Maybe I'm missing something?
 
#48 ·
Maybe one day I'll be able to answer that question.
When all of mine don't wear pic rails ;-)
 
#50 ·
The nut for the keymod sits flush with the inside of the handguard. There's a relief cut in the inside. That's one of the reasons guys like m-lok, it's supposed to be easier to manufacture since it's just a flat surface on the inside of the handguard. Longer screws may stick out past the that and get in the way for either setup.
 
#51 ·
M Lock you've got to be kidding. M Lock was developed because Keymod was gaining traction and Magpull just had to have it's own thing that could be molded. More plastic crap. The Keymod is a precision machined interface which accurately and firmly affixes accessories. M Lock does not. This is just fact. Quit drinking the Magpul Kool Aide and wake up to reality.
 
#52 ·
It's a good thing consumers have choices. We still have certain basic freedoms don't we? or do we all need just one man to tell us all exactly what to eat, drink, dress or buy?

All this time silent and suddenly these posts in one day. Spring is officially here because the troll came out of the cave?

BTW, what kind of toilet paper should we all be buying?? I'm putting together a Amazon Pantry order right now, really don't want to offend you by buying the wrong brand.
 
#55 ·
Looks are preferential.

The reason it will come out on top is that it's easier to machine....though with CNC, the tool path is so simple for KM that it really shouldn't matter.
 
#59 ·
I'm with you completely Chris.
Right now I've got a car, truck, and Jeep. Next month should be the last payment on the last one.
I'd really like to do something with this Jeep, but I want to drop a standard transmission in it if I do. And finding a donor (for pedal brackets and such, trannies are easy to find) in this part of the country isn't easy.
On the other side of things, I'd enjoy building up another serious 351 and dropping it into something that shouldn't have nearly that much torque or horsepower. Just for fun.
Lord willing, I should have everything paid off completely - as in owing no man anything - by the end of January. Then the fun can begin. I'd even bet Trick Flow still makes good heads for that block.
Assuming our economy doesn't collapse before then.
 
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#60 ·
Trump and GOP rolling back finance regulations to pre-2008 level and then some, removing a lot of checks and oversight. With Greed once more unchecked, you bet something big/bad will happen eventually. It just might not burst during his term but much later.

I'm no fan of either parties. But, I know a pattern when I see one.
 
#70 ·
And that's where the trail rider versus the true 4-wheeler have different needs.
Not that trail riding can't be done easily with an auto, but it can be done with a stick shift pretty well too.

My truck has 4.54 gears in axles that aren't hard-core, and a decent transfer case (my opinion, even though it is a chain type), and a pretty good standard tranny - it's good with crawling over normal trail ride obstacles and even pulling some milder hills. For me, that's great, it gets me where I enjoy beeing.

If I tried to use my truck to do what Sean does, I'd break parts and I doubt I'd be able to complete the trail.

One of the guys I used to Jeep with zip-tied a spare axle shaft to his rollbar. I thought he was nuts, until I saw what he was pushing those Dana 30/35's through. There's a big difference between rock crawling and trail riding!
 
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#71 ·
I carry spare D60 shafts...front and rear...and mine are 4340 chromo. Next buggy I build will have 300M shafts....and I'll still carry spares.

I agree btw....for most stuff and manual is fine. It's just for the stupid stuff that it's a hindrance. My current buggy is a manual and there's only been a handful of times the manual has been an issue.

I may have to try more times to find just the right combo of gear and wheel speed....but I can usually make it work. But then, I don't run the really extreme stuff that's available nowadays either....too much potential for extremely expensive breakage or actual injury.

Here's an example of having to find the right gear, line and momentum.

 
#76 ·
Well this thread went to shit.

Just got my rifle back from coating. Looks good. Next step will be to flute the barrel to reduce the weight of this pig.
View attachment 12074

Whaaa....

Thread drift is normal and acceptable around here.

Stick looks great regardless. Nice job man! :)
 
#78 ·
Conversations on here flow like talk when your having a beer with the guys, anything is fair game. People disagree, punch each other and then buy each other a beer. Much more realistic.
 
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#82 ·
What Nate said.
I don't personally run a CTR without a riser.
For me the short one is great, but I'm a fool for the LaRue RAS II mounts for my Aimpoints. It's a little lower than normal, so your mileage may vary.
 
#84 ·
Fwiw,

I like the troy micro height on my ARs. With that in mind, I think the 1/2" brings the rail and cheek close to standard AR relationship. I'll use a .5" with low amount micro mounts and troy sights. Those are approx 1-1.2" over the rail for the optical axis. I've got an ACOG that I use the .75" riser because it sits higher.

Short version... a .5" will get you close to standard AR heights of that's what you're used to.
 
#86 ·
I'll try the low riser first and see how that works.

I do not know what the weight reduction is. I meant to weight it before and after but unfortunately my scale crapped out right before I started cutting. I do know that removing that little bit of aluminum does not reduce weight very much. I think fluting the heavy barrel I have will be a huge improvement.
 
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