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BlackHills Blue Box 55 grain Remanufactured . 223

8455 Views 49 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  ny32182
I just ordered 1000 rounds ..... ;D
I hear nothing but good things about this ammo.

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I received my ammo today and everything is perfect.

I opened a box and I have to say this looks as good as any ammo I have ever used.

Great Deal for 1000 rounds of Blackhill no matter if it's Remanufactured or not.

They ship in boxes of 50 ..... compared to most ship boxes of 20...
Damn, $369.00 per 1,000 ON SALE. This is why I reload, I like to shoot at least 500rds a week and can't afford todays ammo prices. I have a stash of cased ammo of various flavors, but try not to use if I can reload the caliber. Hell, even reloading is getting pricy with all the price increases. :2cents: :duh:
someday I will have thr room for a bench set up and time to re-load.

who knows... I just counted my .223 ammo I have 5240 ...so I have some stashed
You can reload for half that price, and if you take your time still get the same consistency out of the ammo.
Hell Mickey, you get BETTER accuracy if you have the patience to work with different loads :fencing:Each barrel is a bit different, and therefore accuracy results can vary even with the same caliber. I work up a good load for a rifle, I record the results, and load weapon specific, and mark the box(s) for that weapon. I also mark the ammo can for load & weapon. For range fodder I buy cheap components (i.e. sale goodies) and don't really care much..... shoot & enjoy. >:D
gunner69, what are your favorate powder for .223
Hey Texas, For the 60gr Nosler Partition I use 24.3gr of H335, OAL is 2.250. Actually used it on our small deer here in Alabama. Just don't like .223 so I don't make a habit of it. Nosler website gives 23.5 min and 25.5 Max load with this powder. For the 63gr semi-point or the 64gr Winchester Powerpoint I have used 25.5 gr of H4895. For the 64gr Win bullet you can also use 25gr of H335 or 748, or 26gr. of BL(C)2. Good loads NOT Max. For great reload info go to www.loaddata.com :biggun:
Mabe we need a reloading topic? But I decided about 15 years ago to select 1 power for all my long guns needs from .223 through 30-06. IMR 3031 met that need. Now I'm looking to play with other powers. Been using 22.5 gr. IMR 3031, OAL. 2.260, LAKE CITY BRASS, 55gr.FMJBT, CCI-400 primers. THANKS
Texas, Yeh, I tried that one powder shit too............ only different rifles liked different powders sometimes. I like IMR 4064 it "fits" a lot of calibers. Trouble is if I want the best accuracy I need to shoot various loads/powders. No one powder is the answer for every caliber. I stock up on the powders that are right for "groups" of calibers. IMR4064, Win 748, H322 & H335, BLC(2), IMR & H4198.... the list goes on. When I find the appropriate match I load what brass I have, use the wifes fingernail polish to seal both primer & bullet, and mark everything for reference. I look for a clean burning powder, good accuracy, and NO SIGNS of pressure problems (i.e. blown primers, etc.). Enough said...... :toast:
gunner, do you feel sealing the bullet & primer is nessacery, I just finished off a 1,000 round lot that I made in 1986 without sealent,without any problems?
So how long does it take to load 1000 rounds of .223 ?

How much for the equipment?
So how long does it take to load 1000 rounds of .223 ?How much for the equipment?
For me, about 3 hours if you include set-up, disassembly, and clean-up. Possibly a snack in there as well. But this is a SLOW pace, someone in a hurry could do it much faster.

Equipment cost is varaible - I run slightly more expensive dies that most folks, because my dies will do precision rounds if I ask them to. Expect something in the area of 400 federal reserve notes or such.

My set-up is a Hornady L&L (not the old projector, that one's gone - and not the older model that doesn't take the case feeder, that's what I'm using now) with a Redding S-FL die in #1 (the decapping rod and expander are removed), a Lyman M die in #2, powder thrower in #3, Redding BR seating die in #4 and a Redding taper crimp die (typically NOT used to crimp! - for debelling purposes only!) in #5.

The only down-side to this is that I do my brass prep separately. They all go into the tumbler fresh from the ground. Then through a universal decapping die, and are recapped on a RCBS bench-mounted priming press - the one that uses 100 primer sticks - forgot what it's named. After they're primed, they go in a bucket for the wait...... then straight into the Hornady progressive.

Likewise, if you wanted to go with the electric case feeder, you're going to speed up the operation significantly. The next Hornady progressive I buy will have that - I've got two Hornady progressives now (one for shotgun, one for metallic).

The reason I don't go with Dillon instead? You noticed my powdering station is #3. Can't do that on a Dillon. Dillon makes great equipment, no question. Just doesn't jive with what I do.
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I'm sitting here trying to remember what I paid for my stuff. I do use Dillon equipment. I think I've got about $500 odd in the basics...not including the extra press. However, I bought my 550 when they were still less than $300, so it's been awhile. I've always meant to get a second 550 (I run a Square Deal for large pistol), but never have gotten around to it.

Unlike some people, I don't particularly enjoy reloading as a process. I do like the results, however, so I do it as a necessary evil. This means I tend to break the process up quite a bit to avoid spending any more time than necessary in the reloading room. Everything rifle gets tumbled every time it's shot. Pistol I'll often let go, especially with 9mm since that means HKs have been chewing on the cases and I don't much care what they look like. P7s have a high brass attrition rate since they eject like a Saturn 5 rocket, so case inspection isn't a high priority with them. I use a lot of mil brass, so swaging primer pockets is a must. This sucks. Really. I use a Dillon swage. Again, I"ve always meant to get a second one so I don't have to constantly switch between large and small setups (it's a slow process), but have never really gotten around to parting with green. All this is done when I think I'll be reloading a lot of ammo soon.

Case trimming is another necessary evil that is a damned nuisance to do. I find myself mostly doing this with revolver cases, but you will need to if squeezing a lot of reloads out of rifle brass. It's a good idea on pistol brass, too, for headspace reasons, but I still tend to skip it with 9mm and .45 since case attrition is high, especially with 9mm. Here I use a Lyman unit. Powered units be nice. This is also something I tend to do in job lots and not during the actual reloading process.

When it's time to actually put powder in the brass, things go a lot more quickly. I tend to mostly reload .223, 9mm, and .45. I don't do .308 much anymore. Actually, little enough now I"m thinking of picking up a Co-Ax press just for precision .308 loading. Regardless, 1k rounds probably only takes a couple of hours and that's with a fair amount of screwing around. I'm easily distracted, heh. I also have a number of oddball calibers I reload for, but these I tend to do in small lots when I'm in the mood to actually shoot an individual gun. I don't tend to keep stocks of loaded .357, .41, .40, or Super .38 on hand. I'll probably be adding 6.5 Grendel to the mix soon, so maybe I will get that new 550B after all...
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Texas, I only seal, both bullet & primer, when it's intended for long term storage. That even though I store my ammo in ammo cans. Couple weeks ago I was sorting through ammo, and found some 6x45 (6mm/.223) that was loaded in 1969! Shot just under 200 rounds of it with no problem. Must be doing something rite. I put my loaded rounds in Midway boxes, then into ammo cans. I'll bet I have over 25 Ammo cans loaded with various ammo. Plus I have sealed factory ammo of various types. If you ever buy eastern block ammo make sure you get their ammo can tool too. Without the ammo tool the cans are a pure bitch to open. Hope this helps. :tiphat:
I'm going to start reloading as I have the time/etc (sometime early next year I hope), and ordered my initial batch of equipment recently. It ran me about $750. There are a few things I've still got to order such as some sort of primer pocket swager since most of my .223 brass is military.

I've been out of town for a while, but the stuff is waiting for me over the holidays. I'll be reading through the manuals and trying to figure out a good portable bench setup to mount the press, etc on.

I plan to load for .223 and .308 initially. Followed by 10mm.

What brand equipment did you go with?

This is the stuff I have ordered so far. According to the Midway email, everything but the Hornady .223 dies, and I think one other small item has already shipped. I'm looking forward to unpacking it in a couple weeks. :)

Press - Redding model T-7 Turret press
Hand priming tool - RCBS Universal hand priming tool
Digital scale - RCBS Rangemaster 750 Electronic powder scale
Digital caliper - Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" stainless steel
Dies -
Sizer and seater .223 - Hornady custom grade new dimension 2-die set
Hornady sizer and seater .308 - Hornady custom grade new dimension 2-die set
Lee factory crimp die .223
Lee factory crimp die .308
Case trimmer - Forster Original case trimmer kit
Chamfer tool - Forster chamfer and deburring tool
Case tumbler - Frankford Arsenal Case Tumbler Master kit w/media separator
Bullet puller - Hornady cam-lock bullet puller
collets for the puller - Hornady #2 (.224) and #7 (.308)
Die locking rings - Hornady Sure-loc Die Locking Rings
Locking ring wrench - Hornady die locking ring wrench
Case lube - Hornady One shot case lube
Shell holders - Redding #1 (.308) and Redding #10 (.223)
Powder trickler - RCBS powder trickler
Reloading trays - Frankford Arsenal #5 (.308), Frankford Arsenal #2 (.223)
Powder funnel - Lee Powder funnel .22 to .45
Manuals - ABC's of reloading
- Lyman 48th edition
- Loadbooks USA .223 Remington
- Loadbooks USA .308 Winchester
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that should be one hell of a set up. I hope it all goes well for you. Please keep us posted on how it turns out.
Thanks... from what I understand, all that stuff and more is absolutely required though.

For my next order, I've got on the wish list so far:

-tumbler media
-Imperial sizing wax (since I hear the One-shot really doesn't work that well, and the imperial wax seems to get universal rave reviews)
-Some sort of primer pocket swager. I hear the Dillon is the way to go, but I don't see it on Midway's site. I guess I'll have to look for an alternate source.

I hear I may also need a primer pocket cleaner.

I would like a chrono too.

I still need a bench.

And I'm sure the list goes on.
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