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Bolt Won't Close/Pierced Primers

22K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  Sean K. 
#1 ·
If your bolt won't close sometimes, check both your primers and look for little brass slugs in the barrel extension (sometimes smashed flat).

WHEN LOOKING AT THE PRIMERS IF THERE IS A HOLE IN THE PRIMER WHERE THE FIRING PIN HIT, STOP SHOOTING YOUR RIFLE IMMEDIATELY.

What is happening is that the firing pin hole has a sharp edge and the pressure of the primer against the bolt face cuts a little slug of primer out and leaves the hole. The slug from the primer can get caught in the action.

The fix is very simple. We very slightly break the edge of the firing pin hole. Don't do this yourself unless you know what you're doing. If you break the edge too much, you can ruin you're bolt.

DO NOT SHOOT AGAIN UNTIL FIXED.

Symptoms are that the bolt closes sometimes but not others. I'll post some pics as soon as I can. We can fix the bolt in 20 seconds.

If you have any questions, email or call our service department. 801-355-0401 or terra@robarm.com

Thanks,

Alex J. Robinson
Manager
Robinson Armament Co.
 
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#28 · (Edited)
I have the same problem with my 556 kit. Getting pierced primers. Mine also came with a tight chamber. Gun basically would not function at all. Bought a 762x39 kit and its been flawless after 300 rounds other than magazines of course. Guessing our rifles were rushed and or because we had to basically harass him to get them and he sent out some half ass rifles without checking for quality control. I'm going with the latter due to sandy hook happening the same week we got them.

It does suck and I understand him being upset cause I'm having the same problems with mine. Having to wait 9 months then the possibility of having to wait another 9 months is terrible. Even if one did not have to wait for the rifle but had to wait a unknown time for a QC issue is still terrible.

I'll add in that I have read the "quick fixes" that one can do. Such as bust out the dremel for the punched primers and a scotch pad for the chamber. That awesome if they work and I'm glad I know about them. It's just that it still bites that I have to do these things in the first place.

As we all know these issues happen in every industry. It just seems worse when its your beloved firearm.

I had to send in my $1600 ASUS laptop in for repairs and in the process of trying to get a hold of the costumer service I ended up contacting a scam company claiming to be ASUS. They charged me $200 for repairs even though it was still under the one year. Of course this put me into a rage. In the end I figured it out and everything is fine now. The only thing is if ASUS put the customer service number on the website for "American Laptops" I would have never had to deal with all the BS.

Now if Rob starts charging like the scam company then I'll get raged.

P.S. If someone from SLC want to be an emissary and have my bunk parts mailed to them so they could go knock on Rob's door so I could get a faster turn around I'm always looking.
 
#31 ·
I don't remember seeing people use Scotch Brite pads but then again I am old and could be forgetting.:eek: Most have used the appropriate caliber honing brush from Brush Research.
 
#32 ·
Scotch Brite pads will do nothing....you need a flex hone. 400 grit. You get them here: Rifle Brushes, Flex Hone, Gun Brushes

You can use their honing oil or Mobil 1 or similar....

I never had the firing pin hole issue.....I'm guessing you need to chamfer the hole itself, but I have no idea how much or the proper process. There should be threads here on the site to tell you how.

Sorry to hear about your experience with your XCR-L.....unfortunately, I had the same problems and it took a good 9+ months to get it sorted. Looking back, it was worth the trouble, but I understand your frustration.

HTH,
Sean
 
#33 ·
Oh, and your bbl IS chrome lined. The XCR-M has some SS bbls....but chrome has recently become available. The L has always been chrome lined. Oh, and don't worry about the lining....the hone will just polish the surface, take our irregularities, etc....but my understanding is it likely won't require you to cut through the surface coating of the chrome.
 
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