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When breaking it in how often should I lube it? How can I tell when it is broke in? What weight Mobil - 1 works best? Is all of this in the Owners Manual? When breaking it in is it better to rapid fire or fire a few rounds and then cool? Is it better to break it in in one trip to the range or spread it out over a few weeks. I ordered my XCR from Aussie Arms and should have it in a few weeks just waiting on the barrel
I would not stress about breaking in or babying your rifle. Guns are like women, you got to slap them around every once in awhile to see what they can handle ;D

I say keep her wet before each time you shoot her. No break down necessary, just open the action and apply lube liberally. The more you shoot, the more the lube will work it's way through. Break in or no break in, I keep my guns wet. I have found that wet guns just operate better and they are easier to clean afterwards.

As far as oil weight, I don't think it really matters or makes a difference. Both heavy and light seems to do the job just fine. I like light such as 5w-30 only because it gives me the peice of mind knowing that lighter oil moves easier therefore lubing the gun easier. I also have tried 15w-40 and it seems to do just a good of a job. I guess common sense just comes into play here, if it is 100 F plus probably go with heavy, if it is below freezing, go with light, but in the end I don't think it really matters. Just use Mobil-1, it is great stuff!

I am not too meticulous when it comes to break in, and I always break in my guns in one day (if I have the ammo). Only thing I do is shoot 3 rounds, then clean with one wet (bore solvent) and one dry patch. I repeat this process about 3 times, even this might be a little overkill, but I do it just because it is a EricCartmann tradition. Then after tje EC break in method, I just blast away! If a gun does not function properly when new, I would be patient and give it time. Sometimes tolerences are tight and parts just need time to loosen themselves up and mate properly. My $1400 1911 had FTE problems right our of the box, but once I fired the first 50 rounds through her, she has been flawless ever since. My buddies AR-10 took about 100 rounds before it ran flawless. If it still has problems at about the 200 round point, then I would get a little worried.

It is another EricCartman ritual to put a light coat of lube on the inside of the barrel, there are guys who will recommend against this, but I believe anywere there is metal to metal contact, it is better to have a film of oil to slow down wear. Hell if it works for the internals of a car's combustion engine, then it is good enough for my toys.

I have found, if the barrel is not accurate it was not because you did not break it in properly, it was just born that way. I did not even bother my usual barrel break in routine with my Noveske, I was lazy and anxoius to shoot that day, and figured, what the hell, it's a combat rifle anyways. Turns out my 14.5" Noveske is just as accurate as my SS NM free floated M1A and my M1A was painstakenly broken in too!
 
Does it have to mobil-1 or can it be another type of motor oil. I have expensive sythetic oil for my Volkswagen Jetta TDI that isn't sold anymore as they changed types that they use. Would that work?
 
I would have never thought motor oil to be the oil of choice for this. I always just used oil I picked up at the local hunting shop.
 
I would not have thought it either but it makes sense to me
 
... Does it have to mobil-1 or can it be another type of motor oil. ...
After reading Grant Cunningham's article, "Lubrication 101", I decided to use Dextron/Mercon ATF. Ed's Red, a sort of homebrew CLP, is mostly ATF. I think modern ATF has the same boundary layer additives that makes modern motor oil so effective, but it's lighter weight. I own some Millitec, which all accounts indicate is a superb lubricant, but I hestitated to use it after reading some reports about its lackluster corrosion protection.
 
Where did you read about militec having bad corrosion protection? Are you talking about from shooting corrosive ammo? I am just curious. I always use Militec and even after being gone for a year my guns look the way they did when I put them away. All I use is a little Militec as a protectant.
 
Where did you read about militec having bad corrosion protection?
www.militec-1.com/articles/md.html
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-242718.html --read the post by kevin387
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html
http://www.thegunzone.com/let-2001.html
http://actionsbyt.blogspot.com/2007/04/wwwmilitec-1com.html --trouble with this compendium is that all of the articles are hosted by Militec!

There are more that I failed re-locate. The consensus seems to be that Militec, when applied at room temperature, does not provide good corrosion protection. In fact, it doesn't appear to provide any of the advantages touted by the manufacturer unless it is "baked on". The manufacturer corroborates this. I am of a mind with the guy at The Gun Zone, and am a bit disturbed by the knowledge that any parts of my gun, wich aren't getting sufficiently heated up, aren't getting good protection. I mean, if I go to the trouble to bake my weapon after applying Militec, how long does the protection last until I need to re-bake it? Do I need to degrease/coat/bake it every time I put it away for extended periods of storage? (Don't try to answer that; it's rhetorical; I'm fairly certain that nobody here knows the answer)

Keep in mind that I'm not in the dusty, windy deserts of Iraq, trusting my life to the reliable operation of my rifle. In such an environment, the benefits of Militec, properly applied, may be worth the effort. My rifles spend a lot of time in the safe, and the remainder being operated in the relatively controlled conditions of gun ranges. I cannot see the advantage, for me, of a product that requires that I degrease, apply, and then bake-on, over one that allows me to apply and then put the rifle away.

All of that having been said, I may yet change my mind about Militec. There is some evidence that the DOD gave it a bum rap, and lots of people swear by it. But, even if I were to start using it, I don't think I would ever rely on it for corrosion protection in storage.
 
It doesn't need to be baked on, it needs to be applied then you shoot the gun. It supposedly bonds with the metal to provide the protection. I remember reading somewhere that one of the larger motorcycle manufacturers recommended a couple capfuls of Militec in the crank case, might have been BMW but I can't remember.

I became a believer during OIF I and have used it ever since. I just put a bit on and shoot.

I guess bottom line, it is a great lubricant. I store all my guns in the gun socks when I can (though I don't think many of them were socked up this last time). Even in Savannah where the air is salty and all the aluminum parts under the hood of my truck look like crap from the proximity of the ocean, I have never had a problem using Militec.
 
I've heard about the Militec and corrosion stuff before but I think that it is overblown. It does work better in your dirtier environments and if that means I have to PMCS my weapon a few more times to watch out for rust or whatever, and then maybe use a little CLP here and there, then so be it. The weapon will work.
 
Thanks for the heads up on Mobil 1. I was thinking of trying some of the synthetic oils. Somewhere, we were talking about Militec-1 Synthetics. I found a person on ebay that handles all of the Militec Products, example: MILITEC-1 Synthetic Metal Conditioner 4 oz
Buy It Now price: $12.99 This sounds like a good price, as does his other prices on the rest of the Militec line. Vendor info: EBay Seller: majesticdreams( 2022)
End time: Feb-02-09 19:13:36 PST



I just obtained a second hand XCR. My intent is to disassemble, clean (though it looks pristine) and thoroughly lube with Mobil-1 and run at least 300 rounds of American Eagle through it like I'm breaking in a new one. One problem has arisen though, everyone seems to be out of American Eagle. I can find PMC, Privi Partizan and some Lake City XM193, are any of these acceptably equivalent to the American Eagle for break-in?
 
Well, I should have my rifle in mid-February if all goes well. Unfortunately, all I have is wolf 5.56 and I can't afford to buy any more ammo. Is break free CLP sufficient or should I go find this militec stuff?
 
Well, I should have my rifle in mid-February if all goes well. Unfortunately, all I have is wolf 5.56 and I can't afford to buy any more ammo. Is break free CLP sufficient or should I go find this militec stuff?
Set the gas on setting 4 and check your ejection pattern.If it's 12-15 feet back it off the 3.You can use any lubricant you want.CLP is fine,but a good synthetic is better.As other have mentioned Mobil 1 is a good start.You don't have to use hot ammo to break it in,but you might experience a few ejection failures with Wolf the first 200-300 rounds,I never did but your mileage may vary.
 
My general rule of thumb is if it slides it gets oiled, if it cams it gets greased. Break Free, MilTech,Strike hold,Mobil 1, all good. LSA/LSA-T, Tetra, Lubri-Plate, Moly wheel bearing grease also good. I do like the preservative part of CLP.
Pick your favorites.
 
Since I am new and this is my first rifle, the owners manual will tell me where to lube and oil before I shoot my weapon??? I don't want to do anything that will destroy it. It comes lubed from the Factory so you need to add more lube to it once you get it??? These are the questions I need answers to, please.
 
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