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Break in ammo and lube

12K views 50 replies 31 participants last post by  Desert_StormTrooper 
#1 ·
I just obtained a second hand XCR. My intent is to disassemble, clean (though it looks pristine) and thoroughly lube with Mobil-1 and run at least 300 rounds of American Eagle through it like I'm breaking in a new one. One problem has arisen though, everyone seems to be out of American Eagle. I can find PMC, Privi Partizan and some Lake City XM193, are any of these acceptably equivalent to the American Eagle for break-in?
 
#2 ·
Re: Break in ammo

Those should all be fine, I would go with the PMC or lake city only because I have shot both of those and never tried the privi. Make sure it is on gas setting 4 and have fun. If it were me I would use Militec lube if you can find it, especially if you are taking her apart for a thorough cleaning prior to shooting.
 
#3 ·
Re: Break in ammo

I was just reading the posts about Militec and looked at their site. I had been using Tetra and liked it pretty well, but am just about out. I was just trying out Mobil-1 on my 1911 at the recommendation of a friend, so I have that on hand. But, having read the recommendations, I'l get some Militec and use that.
 
#4 ·
Re: Break in ammo

Why Mobil-1?

In race engines we use mineral for the first 1000 miles to let everything bed in before we go Mobil-1. Mobil is so good that if we use it first the valves don't bed and we get shite performance.
 
#45 ·
Re: Break in ammo

Hey Guys & Gals, lol, I have just worked out a SPECIAL PRICE for Miltec-1, EXCLUSIVELY FOR OUR GUN FORUM! Lex is looking it over and hopefully, we will be able to post it very soon. So, if you are in the market for some Miltec-1 lube at a Special Price, hang on just a bit and we'll have it for Us ALL!
SINKER




Why Mobil-1?

In race engines we use mineral for the first 1000 miles to let everything bed in before we go Mobil-1. Mobil is so good that if we use it first the valves don't bed and we get shite performance.
 
#5 ·
Re: Break in ammo

As to why Mobil-1 - it's because I was about out of Tetra and was whining about the cost of buying more Tetra to someone who then recommended Mobil-1 as his current favorite lube for his 1911. So I thought I'd try it.
I like the Tetra grease really well, especially the result of rubbing it in to a Tennifer finish then wiping off as much as I could. Seemed to really smooth thing up without attracting dust and dirt like regular machine oil.
Gun lubes seem to attract a lot of strong personal opinions, the equivalent of "tastes great" vs. "less filling".
 
#6 ·
Re: Break in ammo

And speaking of lubes!

I asked one of my friends about what kind of lube he prefers to use on his stick. He said that they typically use Bullfrog. OK.

So me being me, I look for some, and can't find a single hit on it, even on the internet.

He's one of those 'special' Navy types, so I wonder if it's something super-mystical (GRIN) or only sold to the super-high-speed-ultra-low-drag types. Has anyone got a line on that stuff?

If it's just for protection / lube while swimming in, I'll pass - I don't do much in the way of amphibious landings in the desert ;D but if it's something good, maybe I'll try it.

FWIW, at SHOT, my testimonial about Slip2000 Carbon Killer earned me a bottle of Slip2000 Extreme Weapons Lubricant. I'm shipping him a bottle of that too - to put head-to-head against the Militec. Should be an interesting experiment, eh?
 
#9 ·
I've used Win Q3131 and Breakfree CLP so far with no problems.

Of your choices I would take the XM193 since I've used it before, followed by the Privi because it is also advertized as 5.56 spec and has a good reputation. I might be a little hesitant on the PMC for break in since it is a .223 load and may not be quite as hot as the other two.
 
#10 ·
Davek, If you go with Militech there are TWO (2) types - you want the Militech1. The first three times you use it, it is supposed to bonds to the metal. So the first three times it's recommended to lube it up, shoot till hot, then relube (being careful NOT to burn yourself) at the range. When you get home clean and relube as usual. Do this at least 3 times and there should be a good "bonding" to the metal. Don't forget the trigger area. >:D :2cents: Hope this helps. ;D
 
#14 ·
Like I have said before my 6.8 AR was choosie as hell with what it would cycle. I had 300rds of reloads I used 4198 to reload and the AR wouldn't cycle with it. I'm glad I didn't pull the bullets. My 6.8 XCR eats whatever I feed it, including those reloads. It likes it all!
 
#15 ·
How would Remington UMC work as ammo for Break In
 
#18 ·
+1

I think that goes across the boards for all guns. Even when the gun is not broken in, I never heard of a thing as "too much lube". I use to use break free for lube in all my guns and it works fine, but the past year I have been using Mobil-1. Reason is Mobil-1 is everywhere and a whole liter only cost you $5. I have found it works just as good as break free if not better. Carbon buildup comes off easier, and it does seem to stay "wet" longer.
 
#17 ·
I didn't use any special ammo for my break in. I had purchased 1K rounds of something surplus and just used that. On gas setting 4 with the old style gas block I had a few rounds that didn't have enough energy to completely cycle the bolt and chamber a fresh round - this has been reported many times. I quickly figured out that you can't overlube it when breaking it in and had fewer problems. To put it in perspective, I had maybe 2 or 3 failures out of the first 200 rounds and those were probably all within the first hundred or so. I had ordered one of the new style gas blocks and installed it before getting to the range again. Now on setting 4 with a well lubed bolt and carrier the first rounds were sailing a good 30 feet or more. I dialed it down, fired a few more, and finally wound up on setting 2 still throwing the brass a good 15 feet. The new style gas block definitely has a tighter seal than the old one. I put another 80 rounds through it with no failures on setting 2. At 25yds I was able to put 20 rounds into about a two inch circle shooting off a Harris bipod but shooting as fast as I could line up the ACOG chevron and pull the trigger. BTW, the trigger had also been redone by Bill Springfield between the shoots.
 
#19 ·
When breaking it in how often should I lube it? How can I tell when it is broke in? What weight Mobil - 1 works best? Is all of this in the Owners Manual? When breaking it in is it better to rapid fire or fire a few rounds and then cool? Is it better to break it in in one trip to the range or spread it out over a few weeks. I ordered my XCR from Aussie Arms and should have it in a few weeks just waiting on the barrel
 
#22 ·
I would not stress about breaking in or babying your rifle. Guns are like women, you got to slap them around every once in awhile to see what they can handle ;D

I say keep her wet before each time you shoot her. No break down necessary, just open the action and apply lube liberally. The more you shoot, the more the lube will work it's way through. Break in or no break in, I keep my guns wet. I have found that wet guns just operate better and they are easier to clean afterwards.

As far as oil weight, I don't think it really matters or makes a difference. Both heavy and light seems to do the job just fine. I like light such as 5w-30 only because it gives me the peice of mind knowing that lighter oil moves easier therefore lubing the gun easier. I also have tried 15w-40 and it seems to do just a good of a job. I guess common sense just comes into play here, if it is 100 F plus probably go with heavy, if it is below freezing, go with light, but in the end I don't think it really matters. Just use Mobil-1, it is great stuff!

I am not too meticulous when it comes to break in, and I always break in my guns in one day (if I have the ammo). Only thing I do is shoot 3 rounds, then clean with one wet (bore solvent) and one dry patch. I repeat this process about 3 times, even this might be a little overkill, but I do it just because it is a EricCartmann tradition. Then after tje EC break in method, I just blast away! If a gun does not function properly when new, I would be patient and give it time. Sometimes tolerences are tight and parts just need time to loosen themselves up and mate properly. My $1400 1911 had FTE problems right our of the box, but once I fired the first 50 rounds through her, she has been flawless ever since. My buddies AR-10 took about 100 rounds before it ran flawless. If it still has problems at about the 200 round point, then I would get a little worried.

It is another EricCartman ritual to put a light coat of lube on the inside of the barrel, there are guys who will recommend against this, but I believe anywere there is metal to metal contact, it is better to have a film of oil to slow down wear. Hell if it works for the internals of a car's combustion engine, then it is good enough for my toys.

I have found, if the barrel is not accurate it was not because you did not break it in properly, it was just born that way. I did not even bother my usual barrel break in routine with my Noveske, I was lazy and anxoius to shoot that day, and figured, what the hell, it's a combat rifle anyways. Turns out my 14.5" Noveske is just as accurate as my SS NM free floated M1A and my M1A was painstakenly broken in too!
 
#23 ·
Does it have to mobil-1 or can it be another type of motor oil. I have expensive sythetic oil for my Volkswagen Jetta TDI that isn't sold anymore as they changed types that they use. Would that work?
 
#30 ·
... Does it have to mobil-1 or can it be another type of motor oil. ...
After reading Grant Cunningham's article, "Lubrication 101", I decided to use Dextron/Mercon ATF. Ed's Red, a sort of homebrew CLP, is mostly ATF. I think modern ATF has the same boundary layer additives that makes modern motor oil so effective, but it's lighter weight. I own some Millitec, which all accounts indicate is a superb lubricant, but I hestitated to use it after reading some reports about its lackluster corrosion protection.
 
#25 ·
I would have never thought motor oil to be the oil of choice for this. I always just used oil I picked up at the local hunting shop.
 
#26 ·
I would not have thought it either but it makes sense to me
 
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