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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since there have been some discussion and complaint about the XCR triggers,I figured that I would tell you my experience.OK I know some of you have done your own trigger ,so I don't want to beat a dead horse.I just wanted to kind of refresh the idea to those who may not know.I'm going to first put a disclaimer on this deal.
(1)If you don't feel comfortable taking your trigger assembly apart,DON'T.Don't blame me if you can't reassemble it.
(2) The ideas that I used came from several others here and I don't want to appear to claim responsibility for them,this is just a repost of other's information.
If you can disassemble/reassemble your trigger assembly,you can do a descent job of making a very nice clean "almost" single stage trigger break on the xcr.
(1)This step will eliminate almost completely that heavy first stage.Acquire from a hardware store a 1/4(20) 1 1/4 Allen head screw and corresponding regular and lock/star washers.You can also use philips head if you want.This will replace your grip screw.You may not be able to find 1 1/4 length,so you might have to buy a 1 1/2 and take about 1/4 off of it.Separating the upper and lower makes the next step much easier.Remove the original grip screw and replace with the 1/4(20) 1 1/4 screw using one regular and one star washer.Now cock the hammer,as you tighten the screw,you will be able to feel the trigger take up being reduced,if the screw makes the hammer fall before the grip is tight you need another washer.Using the washers as shims,try to get the right amount of screw penetration that the hammer does not fall,but most if not all of the take-up is gone.There will be just a "pinch" left.MAKE SURE THE SAFETY STILL ENGAGES PROPERLY!! If you try to remove all the take up,you will need to remove just a little material from the safety,so it can completely go on safe.This is because the safety engages the tail of the trigger,in order for it to not allow the trigger to move when it's on safe.I would not recommend this unless you know what you doing,because removing to much will make the safety not work properly.
(Step2) This involves removal of the fire controls.Being familiar with how a trigger works,hammer/sear engagement is very helpfull.I won't go into detail as to how to take it apart here as it's fairly simple.Just pay very good attention to how everything is together now,and you will save allot of potential ass pain later.There are pics in another thread if you cant remember how to reassemble.
The factory finish on the hammer-sear/trigger engagement
prevents the "feel" of the trigger from being stellar.All you really need to do is to polish them.I used 300 grit paper to remove the finish.Then I used a dremal with a cloth polishing wheel and flitz metal polish(you can buy this at about any Wal-mart).The hammer/trigger engagement is the little "shelf" on the hammer and the wedge shape on the front of the trigger.The surface should look like a mirror when your done.Don't get too aggressive and take too much or you WILL create a hair trigger,and don't round any edges!All you need is to polish the surfaces.If you have to,reassemble and test dry fire several times if this step intimidates you.Use the Dremal on the lowest setting and use eye protection,and an old shirt.that little demon flings polishing paste pretty nicely. :duh:
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.I have nothing against Bill Springfield,he does excellent work(ptr-91 for me)I just couldn't bear to send my new toy away so soon after waiting 2 years for it,plus I like to tinker.I personally believe everyone who intends to use this rifle for self defense and or serious work should know how to replace just about every part.The beauty of this design in my humble opinion is its simplicity and ergonomics.Thats makes for a very user friendly weapon.One you can depend on and service if ever necessary.
I hope this helps anyone interested.The end result on my rifle is about a 5 pound letoff with next to 0 take up.
Matt









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Re: d.y.i. trigger job

HI GUYS

I NEED TO PUT MY TWO CENTS IN ON THIS TOPIC. I AM BY NO MEANS A EXPERT OR A GURU ON THIS TOPIC BUT I HAVE BEEN DOING GUNSMITHING ON THE SIDE FOR PEOPLE FOR THE LAST TEN PLUS YEARS AND IF YOU ARE GONNA DO THIS TRIGGER JOB YOURSELF I WOULD STRONGLY RECCCOMEND DOING THE TRIGGER GROUP POLISHING FIRST BECAUSE OF HOW MUCH POLISHING/SANDING/GRINDING YOU DO AFTER THE TAKE UP SCREW, YOU WILL MORE THAN LIKELY LOSE MOST OF WHAT YOU HAVE JUST ACHEIVED BEFORE. LIKE I SAID I AM NO EXPERT ON THIS!!!!!!! ALSO VERY GOOD HOW TO TOPIC!!!!!
TWO THUMBS UP!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: d.y.i. trigger job

Thanks for the compliments.I guess the reason I suggested the grip screw first is that some people don't feel comfortable taking apart their trigger assembly,and for some people that step might be all they feel is necessary for a descent "feel".
There is another part I left out.Some people have had problems with their trigger resetting,and I wanted to share with them how I fixed mine.The hammer has a bump on the left side that engages the J shaped hook on the disconnector.These surfaces have the same problem as the hammer sear engagement.The factory finish is rough causing it to drag.There is also a rather sharp edge on that hook.You can correct the trigger failing to reset by using a file and just barely removing the sharp edge on the disconnector.Then you can polish both it and the corresponding bump on the the hammer.YOU MUST BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO REMOVE TOO MUCH MATERIAL FROM THE HOOK ON THE DISCONNECTOR!! The goal here is to be able to be able to push the hammer back(simulating the bolt carrier riding over it) and not have it hang on the disconnector when it goes back to its cocked position.Again I hope this helps.
Matt




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Re: d.y.i. trigger job

someone should make a video of this and post it for all those visual learners out there
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Since there are so many new owners,and members I just thought this might be god to revisit.Again if there are any questions fell free to ask.Also any experiences with doing this yourself could be beneficial to the group.
 

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Thanks for posting this.....great info. I plan to give it a shot when I get my XCR.

Thanks again,
Sean
 

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if you're putting a screw up through the grip hole and it feels like it's going to strip out, STOP what you are doing and GTFO. I have seen two lowers now with set screws stripped out. Sometimes the hole's a bit tight and a tap has to be run through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't personally experience what Terra is talking about,but some of the grip screw holes might not be bored completely through.I can see how that would cause the problem she's talking about.The best way to find out is run the new screw in without the grip in place to make sure your getting complete penetration.This way you can see and feel what's going on better.Like she said,if it won't go through,the proper tap will cure the issue,making sure your carefull when starting the tap to insure zero damage to the threads in the lower.Good luck to all,and have fun.
 
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