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Since there have been some discussion and complaint about the XCR triggers,I figured that I would tell you my experience.OK I know some of you have done your own trigger ,so I don't want to beat a dead horse.I just wanted to kind of refresh the idea to those who may not know.I'm going to first put a disclaimer on this deal.
(1)If you don't feel comfortable taking your trigger assembly apart,DON'T.Don't blame me if you can't reassemble it.
(2) The ideas that I used came from several others here and I don't want to appear to claim responsibility for them,this is just a repost of other's information.
If you can disassemble/reassemble your trigger assembly,you can do a descent job of making a very nice clean "almost" single stage trigger break on the xcr.
(1)This step will eliminate almost completely that heavy first stage.Acquire from a hardware store a 1/4(20) 1 1/4 Allen head screw and corresponding regular and lock/star washers.You can also use philips head if you want.This will replace your grip screw.You may not be able to find 1 1/4 length,so you might have to buy a 1 1/2 and take about 1/4 off of it.Separating the upper and lower makes the next step much easier.Remove the original grip screw and replace with the 1/4(20) 1 1/4 screw using one regular and one star washer.Now cock the hammer,as you tighten the screw,you will be able to feel the trigger take up being reduced,if the screw makes the hammer fall before the grip is tight you need another washer.Using the washers as shims,try to get the right amount of screw penetration that the hammer does not fall,but most if not all of the take-up is gone.There will be just a "pinch" left.MAKE SURE THE SAFETY STILL ENGAGES PROPERLY!! If you try to remove all the take up,you will need to remove just a little material from the safety,so it can completely go on safe.This is because the safety engages the tail of the trigger,in order for it to not allow the trigger to move when it's on safe.I would not recommend this unless you know what you doing,because removing to much will make the safety not work properly.
(Step2) This involves removal of the fire controls.Being familiar with how a trigger works,hammer/sear engagement is very helpfull.I won't go into detail as to how to take it apart here as it's fairly simple.Just pay very good attention to how everything is together now,and you will save allot of potential ass pain later.There are pics in another thread if you cant remember how to reassemble.
The factory finish on the hammer-sear/trigger engagement
prevents the "feel" of the trigger from being stellar.All you really need to do is to polish them.I used 300 grit paper to remove the finish.Then I used a dremal with a cloth polishing wheel and flitz metal polish(you can buy this at about any Wal-mart).The hammer/trigger engagement is the little "shelf" on the hammer and the wedge shape on the front of the trigger.The surface should look like a mirror when your done.Don't get too aggressive and take too much or you WILL create a hair trigger,and don't round any edges!All you need is to polish the surfaces.If you have to,reassemble and test dry fire several times if this step intimidates you.Use the Dremal on the lowest setting and use eye protection,and an old shirt.that little demon flings polishing paste pretty nicely. :duh:
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.I have nothing against Bill Springfield,he does excellent work(ptr-91 for me)I just couldn't bear to send my new toy away so soon after waiting 2 years for it,plus I like to tinker.I personally believe everyone who intends to use this rifle for self defense and or serious work should know how to replace just about every part.The beauty of this design in my humble opinion is its simplicity and ergonomics.Thats makes for a very user friendly weapon.One you can depend on and service if ever necessary.
I hope this helps anyone interested.The end result on my rifle is about a 5 pound letoff with next to 0 take up.
Matt
..
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(1)If you don't feel comfortable taking your trigger assembly apart,DON'T.Don't blame me if you can't reassemble it.
(2) The ideas that I used came from several others here and I don't want to appear to claim responsibility for them,this is just a repost of other's information.
If you can disassemble/reassemble your trigger assembly,you can do a descent job of making a very nice clean "almost" single stage trigger break on the xcr.
(1)This step will eliminate almost completely that heavy first stage.Acquire from a hardware store a 1/4(20) 1 1/4 Allen head screw and corresponding regular and lock/star washers.You can also use philips head if you want.This will replace your grip screw.You may not be able to find 1 1/4 length,so you might have to buy a 1 1/2 and take about 1/4 off of it.Separating the upper and lower makes the next step much easier.Remove the original grip screw and replace with the 1/4(20) 1 1/4 screw using one regular and one star washer.Now cock the hammer,as you tighten the screw,you will be able to feel the trigger take up being reduced,if the screw makes the hammer fall before the grip is tight you need another washer.Using the washers as shims,try to get the right amount of screw penetration that the hammer does not fall,but most if not all of the take-up is gone.There will be just a "pinch" left.MAKE SURE THE SAFETY STILL ENGAGES PROPERLY!! If you try to remove all the take up,you will need to remove just a little material from the safety,so it can completely go on safe.This is because the safety engages the tail of the trigger,in order for it to not allow the trigger to move when it's on safe.I would not recommend this unless you know what you doing,because removing to much will make the safety not work properly.
(Step2) This involves removal of the fire controls.Being familiar with how a trigger works,hammer/sear engagement is very helpfull.I won't go into detail as to how to take it apart here as it's fairly simple.Just pay very good attention to how everything is together now,and you will save allot of potential ass pain later.There are pics in another thread if you cant remember how to reassemble.
The factory finish on the hammer-sear/trigger engagement
prevents the "feel" of the trigger from being stellar.All you really need to do is to polish them.I used 300 grit paper to remove the finish.Then I used a dremal with a cloth polishing wheel and flitz metal polish(you can buy this at about any Wal-mart).The hammer/trigger engagement is the little "shelf" on the hammer and the wedge shape on the front of the trigger.The surface should look like a mirror when your done.Don't get too aggressive and take too much or you WILL create a hair trigger,and don't round any edges!All you need is to polish the surfaces.If you have to,reassemble and test dry fire several times if this step intimidates you.Use the Dremal on the lowest setting and use eye protection,and an old shirt.that little demon flings polishing paste pretty nicely. :duh:
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.I have nothing against Bill Springfield,he does excellent work(ptr-91 for me)I just couldn't bear to send my new toy away so soon after waiting 2 years for it,plus I like to tinker.I personally believe everyone who intends to use this rifle for self defense and or serious work should know how to replace just about every part.The beauty of this design in my humble opinion is its simplicity and ergonomics.Thats makes for a very user friendly weapon.One you can depend on and service if ever necessary.
I hope this helps anyone interested.The end result on my rifle is about a 5 pound letoff with next to 0 take up.
Matt
..
Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
