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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else here do your own trigger job?

I have an SBR and was too busy to send it to Bill for his trigger job. So, I did it myself over the 4th of July weekend. I started with the double grip screw/set screw method and ended with some metal removal on the trigger.

I have to say I love that trigger now. No take up and consistent pull and reset. It is really nice.
 

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Lucky Bastard.... if I tried that I would have to buy parts + call Bill for a fix! :duh: Enjoy your XCR. :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put 200 round through it and the trigger is great. No problems and the safety works fine. All is good.

If anybody out there would like to do your own trigger job I'll give you the details.
 

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I did my own trigger guard and am quite pleased with it as well. I posted details in the past but if someone needs them again, let me know. Mine took about 20 minutes.
 

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I put 200 round through it and the trigger is great. No problems and the safety works fine. All is good.

If anybody out there would like to do your own trigger job I'll give you the details.
Please share... with pics if at all possible!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Been a bit busy to take pics. Also not too willing to take my gun apart to take the pics. But I’ll get around to it.

For now I will give the textual details.

First a disclaimer: I assume no responsibility for damage you may do to your rifle or the functioning of the safety mechanism of your rifle. While I am very satisfied that my rifle has a perfectly functioning safety mechanism, due to your own actions (or mistakes) you may not achieve the same result. Big boy rules apply.

1. Start with the set screw method for improving the trigger. I found this somewhere in a forum but I don’t remember where. Basically you go to Home Depot and buy a stainless screw to replace the grip screw. You then buy a set screw the same thread pitch. The post had the exact thread pitch and length of the screws to buy. I will try to look that up.
2. Remove the grip screw and grip.
3. Install the set screw into the grip screw hole. The goal here is to screw in the set screw to contact the rear of the trigger. You then keep engaging the screw into the trigger to take up the travel the trigger has before the hammer is released.
4. At some point the trigger will be moved so far up that the safety selector will be engaged. When this happened you will not be able to place the selector on safe. The set screw will not allow the trigger to move far enough down to allow the safety to be rotated.
5. Unscrew the set screw enough to remove the safety selector.
6. Remove the safety selector.
7. Screw the set screw in to again engage the trigger with the set screw.
8. Keep testing the trigger as you are screwing in the set screw.
9. You will reach a point when all “take-up” in the trigger has been reached. It will feel like a perfect single stage trigger with no take-up and only a crisp break.
10. Back off the set screw a little. How much is up to you. The more you back off the better the functioning of your safety or how precise you do not have to be in the removing of metal from the trigger in the following steps to achieve a satisfactory margin of safety.
11. Look through the safety selector hole. You will see the trigger is now moved up by the set screw to not permit the safety selector to be inserted. You may use the safety selector to test this.
12. Use a round file or the small size sanding drum on a Dremel tool to remove metal from the trigger to match the safety selector hole. Be conservative. Remove small amounts at a time and test with the safety selector. Do not over do it! You will need to only match the radius of the selector hole and NO MORE. This is the exact area that is engaged by the safety. Removing to much will not allow the safety to function properly.
13. Install safety selector, grip and remaining parts and test.
14. Optional….I had to widen the flat area on the safety selector. During testing I noticed that if the safety selector was pushed to one side I could have the selector in the fire position but could not press the trigger. By widening the flat area and sloping the step off the flat area of the selector where the trigger is engaged by the safety selector this false safety engagement would not occur.
15. Optional….I also re-contoured the area, on the trigger, where the disconnector contacts the trigger. I did not want the disconnector to engage if the trigger was NOT depressed. If you do not chamfer the edge of this contact point the disconnector will drag on the trigger. I did not like this so I changed the shape of the trigger where it engages the disconnector. Warning removing too much material here and the disconnector will not engage when the trigger IS depressed. This would be a very bad thing.
16. If at any point you suspect you may have removed too much material, for the love of god, buy a replacement part and start over.
17. Test your safety and its function fully, if you have any doubt that it does not work completely buy the necessary replacement parts and start over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found this:

It is from the Bill Springfield Trigger Job post.
"1/4" 20 X 1/2" headless allen screw" and the grip screw is a 1/4" 20 X 3/4" allen screw with a head

OK, this is not difficult, just takes about 30 minutes and of course a test fire. I went to home depot and bought a 1/4" x 3/8" set screw (hex head) and a 1/4" x 3/4" button head hex screw. Other than that all you will need is a 1/8 inch allen wrench and a 5/32 allen wrench.



Start by using that 5/32 wrench and removing the screw holding the grip on. I reused the star washer that was on mine. Be sure you don't lose the spring or the safety detent when you remove the grip. Once the grip is removed you will insert the 3/8" set screw into the hole that the grip screw threads into. Should look something like this.


What I did was screw it in with the hammer cocked. as soon as the hammer went forward I started backing it out until I could cock the hammer again and also pull the trigger. Once you start playing with it you will feel what I mean. Here are a few pics from the top side.




Once you have it set where you want it use the new 3/4" button head screw to secure the grip back on the receiver (making sure the safety detent and spring are in place).

Once you have it all back together make sure the safety still works properly (the first time I installed mine I had it just a little too tight and the safety lever wouldn't move all the way to the S. Still worked but didn't click into place).

The last thing to do would be to test fire and adjust as necessary. Once final adjustments are made you should be able to use a little blue lok-tite to hold it in place, probably applying it from the topside and letting it settle into the threads.

As per my post above Bill Springfield says that this should help out. I know on mine it feels like there is less reset and creep than before but maybe that is my mind talking after spending $2 on those screws
 

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Thanks for a the usefull info,but after posting that question for you ,I had in the meantime found the other thread you posted referencing the grip screw trigger job.I got a 1/4" (20) 1 and 1/2" and took off a 1/4 inch then shimmed it for adjustment using one star lock washer and one regular washer.I did,while I had everything apart again,use a little 600 grit sandpaper on the hammer/sear engagement.The result is about a 5 pound single stage with just a very little bit of take-up.I am very pleased.I'm just trying to figure out what ammo to try now.With lake city 55 grain ball it was a one holer at 25 yards...lol...with the heavier trigger.Thanks again for the help.
Matt



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