Educate Me Gun Coatings
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Depends on the application i use them both molygun kote is great on metal and cures at 320ish where as dura kote cures air temp to 110 i usually will take and do the metal in molygun Kote base. Then do plastic and optics in dura kote. the final cammo patterning is usually dura cote that way i get the best lasting results .ar15.com has a good refinishing section in the armory . hope this helps
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I called Ceracoat and asked about shops that could apply in my area.
They referred me to a place called Robinson Armament. Eh!
Ty said that (IIRC) Alex had ordered some, and was messing with coatings as a possibility, but nothing ready yet. I suppose Ceracoat just looked up which businesses had ordered from them.....
Instead Ty offered me the name of someone that DOES do the coatings.
Who knows, maybe if we hang loose a bit, we can order a new XCR (or two) in coyote tan, (my favorite) 3-color desert camo, or (dare I hope?) multicam.
They referred me to a place called Robinson Armament. Eh!
Ty said that (IIRC) Alex had ordered some, and was messing with coatings as a possibility, but nothing ready yet. I suppose Ceracoat just looked up which businesses had ordered from them.....
Instead Ty offered me the name of someone that DOES do the coatings.
Who knows, maybe if we hang loose a bit, we can order a new XCR (or two) in coyote tan, (my favorite) 3-color desert camo, or (dare I hope?) multicam.
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1,475 Posts
I really love black guns so I haven't given much thought to painting mine... but a combination of call of duty 4 and aussie does have me pretty interested in urban camo ;D
maybe I'll have to get another xcr to do that on
maybe I'll have to get another xcr to do that on
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4,535 Posts
Black guns are nice and all, until you have to have 'em out in the sun on a hot day.
I've had the CAR so hot I couldn't bring it up onto my cheek without discomfort.
Gloves go a long ways towards working that out on the hands, but the face is still another problem. And no, I don't wear a toque.
I've had the CAR so hot I couldn't bring it up onto my cheek without discomfort.
Gloves go a long ways towards working that out on the hands, but the face is still another problem. And no, I don't wear a toque.
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6,835 Posts
If you want a black finish that will never wear Nighthawk Custom has one called Diamond Black. I have seen pistols with thousands of presentations from Kydex with no show for it.
For colors I vote Duracoat, only because they are the only one I am somewhat familiar with.
For colors I vote Duracoat, only because they are the only one I am somewhat familiar with.
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431 Posts
dosent duracoat wair off after some hard use??? How well dose it do long term wise??? Most of what I see is fresh coated but pictures of the rifles in Iraq and Afganistan, the paints flaking off, is this becuse they just used spray paint or was it duracoat...
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82 Posts
Thats why i put a coat of moly on as a base then if there is any chipping it just enhances the camo by brining up a base instead of black or something that doesn't go with the color scheme (fde, tan,brown ,od all work well as a under coat ). the moly gun kote when applied right needs to be aggressively blasted to remove and doesn't chip easily. I finally figured this out about after 30 or so refinishes. dura kote is hard and they do sell a additive to give it more flex, but they didnt have it till after i got started using both as described. its my understanding the mil uses spray cans mostly cheep and quick but as ive not been in the service for about 25 years things change ...for what its worth :2cents:
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I believe most of the rifles that you see with the paint flaking off were painted with spray paint.
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SWEEP - I have a (20") Remington 870 barrel I'd like to simply finish with black Dura-coat. Most, if not all, of the factory bluing is gone. I also have a nice blast cabinet that I can load with whatever size grit is needed.
What do you recommend as being the best blast media, and from there, what are the 1, 2, 3 steps needed?
Thanks!
What do you recommend as being the best blast media, and from there, what are the 1, 2, 3 steps needed?
Thanks!
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82 Posts
Dont use glass beeds ! I like to use play sand from home depot nice fine and clean .
1st step completely disassemble your weapon putting your parts groups on ziplocs . i then degrease all parts to be sprayed by washing in hot soapy water once washed, i dry, then blast. This way your media stays clean and you don't re grease your parts.
2nd After blasting i wash again then heat to 150-170 degrees this will open the pores of the metal and pull any more grease or oil out i then dump the hot part in a acetone wash .
At this point do not handle any parts with out rubber gloves as not to recontaminate your parts with finger oils.
the final step is to heat the parts to about 110 an spray them with your coating by heating them you will minimize runs and sags.. if you have any you can acetone wash and redo that step prior to curing in the oven
After all parts are sprayed bake to temp/time and reassemble hope this helps ...Sweep ...... ps don't bake plastic parts!
1st step completely disassemble your weapon putting your parts groups on ziplocs . i then degrease all parts to be sprayed by washing in hot soapy water once washed, i dry, then blast. This way your media stays clean and you don't re grease your parts.
2nd After blasting i wash again then heat to 150-170 degrees this will open the pores of the metal and pull any more grease or oil out i then dump the hot part in a acetone wash .
At this point do not handle any parts with out rubber gloves as not to recontaminate your parts with finger oils.
the final step is to heat the parts to about 110 an spray them with your coating by heating them you will minimize runs and sags.. if you have any you can acetone wash and redo that step prior to curing in the oven
After all parts are sprayed bake to temp/time and reassemble hope this helps ...Sweep ...... ps don't bake plastic parts!
I have had at least a dozen painted rifles useing most types of coatings, all done by people who do it for a living, heres what i have found
Metachol, done only by ARS, VERY durable, can be done on small parts and in very hight temp aplications, somewhat limited in color but an extremely nice product.
Norrels Moly, nice coating as well, not as durable as some but still a nice product, havent seen a wide variaty of colors but lots of people do it so time frame is good.
Duracoat, it seems to be the all round winner for me, lots of colors, can coat abourt everything and after a few weeks very tough.
Ion Bond, only limited to the AR BCGs i have used, probably the best there is on steel , its Rockwell 90+, the drawback is availability, use on only certain types of materials and cost,
As always your millage may vary
Metachol, done only by ARS, VERY durable, can be done on small parts and in very hight temp aplications, somewhat limited in color but an extremely nice product.
Norrels Moly, nice coating as well, not as durable as some but still a nice product, havent seen a wide variaty of colors but lots of people do it so time frame is good.
Duracoat, it seems to be the all round winner for me, lots of colors, can coat abourt everything and after a few weeks very tough.
Ion Bond, only limited to the AR BCGs i have used, probably the best there is on steel , its Rockwell 90+, the drawback is availability, use on only certain types of materials and cost,
As always your millage may vary
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