XCR Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed my G3 gas valve was no longer flush after a day on the range, did not have any cycle issues I may add. the detent was protruded as well. I emailed in, and was told the gas valve heat treat process had changed and I would need to send the barrel/block in RMA to be repaired. Upon closer look the valve itself was cracked and the set screw could not be removed. The set screw on the bottom of the gas block was also a little lose. I bought this weapon new and had about 5-600rds mostly suppressed in 2 range trips. 12in barrel.

Well, as I said, it gets worse...before it could reach my destination, the barrel was removed from the package I sent it in and no where to be found, and now I am waiting on another barrel to be made...WEAK
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,964 Posts
I noticed my G3 gas valve was no longer flush after a day on the range, did not have any cycle issues I may add. the detent was protruded as well. I emailed in, and was told the gas valve heat treat process had changed and I would need to send the barrel/block in RMA to be repaired. Upon closer look the valve itself was cracked and the set screw could not be removed. The set screw on the bottom of the gas block was also a little lose. I bought this weapon new and had about 5-600rds mostly suppressed in 2 range trips. 12in barrel.

Well, as I said, it gets worse...before it could reach my destination, the barrel was removed from the package I sent it in and no where to be found, and now I am waiting on another barrel to be made...WEAK
The gas block set screw looks A LOT loose.

Did the dial itself crack or when you say 'valve' do you mean the internal part of the dial that has the different gas port sizes?

I'm assuming since you said the set screw couldn't be removed that you didn't drill it out and disassemble far enough to find out if the internal stem/port assembly was damaged. I do wonder if the loose gas block set screw could contribute to your breakage....as cycling the weapon would have the piston driving into internal parts....and trying to push the dial off the stem, resulting in what looks like (the picture isn't clear) a crack in the dial at the set screw location.

Did you ever check to make sure the gas block set screw was properly torqued? They usually don't loosen up so I'm guessing as new as the rifle is, someone at the factory forgot to tighten it appropriately.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just checked it hand tight as it was new I figured everything would be good to go. The set screw on the dial, is cracked right there, thus making it impossible to remove without further damaging the dial/valve. Which is why I was requested by Robinson to send it in. We'll probably never know now as it is more than likely gone forever thanks to USPS.

oh yeah, after break-in, both my 12in L and M are shot 100% suppressed, on setting 1.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
242 Posts
Bummer. My first guess would be as above, gas block screw came loose, allowed the block the move a little, and the harmonics BTFO the dial set screw. Gas block screw should be 100in/lb, do the barrel straightening trick on your other rifle, then witness mark the screw.

The only screws I've had back out were on the ejector. Luckily I just noticed it during a cleaning. Now I torque and mark everything that can turn. I haven't seen the gas block screw come out like that though, that's a first.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top