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Got Slap?

7K views 45 replies 19 participants last post by  mpspringer 
#1 ·
Ok here's my question.Does the Trigger slap on the XCR bug the hell out of anyone else? I've never owned a rifle that did this,but I've shot a few AK's that had the affliction so I know what it feels like.Well It hasn't been a big issue for me because the "XCR slap" isn't as bad as some.However since doing my trigger job on it,I notice it more now,plus I've been shooting it more.
So I figured if it works anything like the AK,it has something to do with trigger geometry and the bolt carrier reciprocating over the hammer,which in turn bumps the disconnector,which hits the trigger giving it that annoying stinging effect.So after close examination of the trigger "works" and hypothesizing what the possible solution might be,heres what I came up with.
The bottom edge of the shelf on the hammer hits the disconnector on it's rearward travel to be re-cocked.So what I did was take the hammer out and grind just a little off the portion(see pic) that was striking the disconnector.This should not affect anything other than the trigger slap,you won't change you trigger pull weight or anything by doing this.
I've not done a full scale shooting session since I did this.It was dark and cold,so I only fired 5 to test.I didn't want to get local 5-0 called either.From what I can tell so far,it is completely gone.It only take about 10 seconds on a bench grinder and another 30 seconds with a fine file to smooth it up and that's it.Always remember less is more sometimes,in other words don't get grinder happy.Just thought I would share.
 

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#5 ·
Actually Charliea what causes the trigger to not reset is the top corner,not the bottom corner.Yes it does hang on the disconnector though and it does so after the bolt carrier has cycled forward,then when you let off the trigger so it can reset that top corner hangs on the hook on the disconnect,not allowing the hammer to return.
The problem of "slap" occurs basically opposite of "failure to rest".In other words the bolt is coming back and as the carrier pushes the hammer back(hard)the bottom of that bump(on the hammer) smacks the disconnector hard enough to "slap" the trigger.Therefore removing a little material from the bottom of the bump causes less force on the front of the hook on the disconnector.I hope that's not too confusing ... :duh:
Anyway I thought that trigger slap was a more common problem with the XCR.As I said it's not terrible,but I start to notice it after a few shots.It kind of makes your finger tingle a little.Hell I don't know maybe I'm just losing my mind...lol
 
#7 ·
My Ruger 22/45 has a wicked slap on the last round.
Damn AZ,If my 22/45 has one I've never noticed.Ill have to try that tomorrow.I won't be out there long though,Damn wintertime.It was 8 degrees here last night.
 
#9 ·
It is an older 22/45, about 8 years old. It only does it on the last shot, probably something to do with the bolt hold open. It may only do it suppressed but it has been so long since I have shot it without a suppressor that I just don't know.
 
#10 ·
Chan67,unless Bill does something I don't know of,his regular trigger job wouldn't change the "slap" since the surfaces that affect trigger pull are not the same as the ones that cause "slap".
AZ,I would think the suppressor would increase bolt velocity,if that were true however,I would think it would do it everytime.That is just strange,mine might be 6 years old.I wanted to get the MK3 but when I found it had a magazine safety I said "not for me thanks". I don't know how hard it would be to disengage.I cannot tolerate a magazine safety.It's one of my pistol pet peeves.they are about as useless as windshield wipers on a horses ass!!
 
#11 ·
It is quite easy to get rid of the mag safety. I have been doing lots of research lately as I want to get a pac-lite barrel for a new gun. I will be perusing the pawn shops when I get back for a decent Ruger MKII or III
 
#12 ·
I'm confused by the picture (mostly b/c I'm stupid).....


Did you round the whole ledge there or just that corner?

Sean
 
#13 ·
I'm sorry I see what you mean,I meant the whole self.The pic was only to suggest how much rounding,but not just the corner.
 
#15 ·
So I just finished this up. When I took things apart, I noted that I could induce slap just by manually resetting the hammer :-\ I rounded off the corner with a file and cleaned it up with some paper. Now its smooth as butter ;D Now I just need to replace the grip screw for the single stage setting.




While I was in there, I cleaned up the sear engagement and removed a bit of the front trunnion to allow the halves to open a bit wider for cleaning.



It opens nice and wide now, and it didn't take much to remove.
 
#17 ·
Comatzd have you fired it yet since you did the work...if so did it work?
 
#19 ·
Sweet,I didn't take off nearly that much and it fixed mine,you should be good to go.
 
#20 ·
I just got a 1-1/4" bolt for the grip screw and it is too short! Anyway, after looking at it, if I take off just a little from the tail of the trigger where it hits the safety, I think I could take up almost all the 1st stage slack.

Something for later this weekend. My wife loves it when I spread gun parts around the living room >:D
 
#21 ·
I just got a 1-1/4" bolt for the grip screw and it is too short!
Damn that's strange.So what length screw did you use to take up the first stage? Oh and you might want to take just a fudge off the safety,if you take it off the trigger tail and you take too much your safety won't work and I'm pretty sure the safety is a cheaper part to replace than the trigger itself.Take just a little bit at a time,trust me on this one!!...lol.If I remember right,someone else here changed their grip out not long ago and used a 1 and 1/2 inch screw,I found that odd but the newer lowers must be a little different than mine.Anyway glad you figured it out,how much did it improve the trigger.What did you use to clean up your sear engagements,just paper? If you polish them it makes a world of difference.
 
#22 ·
I was debating on taking material from the safety or the trigger tail. I think now I'll go with your suggestion and work on the safety instead.

My lower is the (just) old style and I still have the standard grip, but the 1-1/4" screw I tried to use doesn't quite reach the trigger. It's probably 1.20" instead of 1.25" or something. I'll pick up a 1.5" one tomorrow and use some washers to shim it out.

I usually use paper on my sears, I don't have a good set of stones. I carefully take the finish off with some 400, then polish with some 1000 or 1500. I do it in the sink with a little water and I wrap the paper over a small, flat needle file for the hammer notch. I usually only use 600 or higher on the hammer so I don't change the angle.
 
#23 ·
I polished mine with a cloth buffing wheel on a Dremal and used Flitz metal polish after using 400-600 grit paper,Looks like a mirror,and slick as a babies bottom.Mine breaks at about 4.5 to 5 pounds. ;D
 
#24 ·
OK, I did a little more work! If you file a bit off the safety 'barrel' you can take up almost all of the first stage. You need to remove material right at the edge of the flat spot, you don't have to go too far back on the round edge. If you see how the trigger tail and the safety touch, you'll see what I mean.

I left the grip off, inserted the screw/bolt into the hole and repeatedly adjusted the screw and clearanced the safety until the slack was taken up. You can watch the disconnector hook approach the hammer as you take up the slack. I set mine there was about .005" between. The first stage is not 'felt' anymore, it's more like 1/16"-1/8" takeup when you put your finger on the trigger.

Once the safety stuff was set up, I went to the store and got a 1/4-20 set screw 1/4" long for the "grip screw" adjustment. Thread the set screw in from the bottom, then put a little threadlocker (I used the blue stuff, don't use the red) in the hole from the top (very important!). I had to take the trigger apart to drop it in using a toothpick. Putting it in at the top will allow you to easily remove the grip screw later. Then adjust the set screw to remove as much of the first stage as wanted and the safety will allow.

Once the set screw is adjusted, run the grip screw back in by hand to determine how deep it can go without hitting the set screw. I had just enough clearance with the screw in the grip.

Now I can change grips at any time without having to worry about changing the trigger setup! I just have to be sure not to bottom out my grip screw into the set screw.

I'll try to get some pictures later.
 
#26 ·
That exactly how I did mine except for simplicity I just used one screw and ground it down to the length I needed.Then I fine tuned it with washers,using them as shims.I also took just a little off the flat on the safety so I could take more out of the first stage.If you want to make sure not to bottom out the grip screw just take a little off the grip screw and it should clear with no problems.So how does your trigger feel now,sweet ain't it? Mine feels almost identical to my 1911,clean break single stage,4-5 pounds.Someone else did the setscrew on this forum too,I can't remember who,but it's how I got the idea to do mine.
 
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