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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 800 rounds thru my XCR ...a mix of 55 grain Federal American Eagle Boat tail
and Remington UMC.

I have cleaned the bore with a Dewey rod and patch as well as a Bore snake and decided to break my gun down for a more detailed cleaning.

Let me start by stating that I only own Sig Pistols and am comfortable to a certain degree with taking apart things and putting them back together...the Sigs are pretty damn easy to break down and clean ;D

I am blown away by how easy it was to disassemble the XCR.. I followed the manual and it was a breeze.

Cleaning the gas tube was easy but I think I may follow someone in the SigForums advice and get a 20 gauge shotgun nylon brush.....man there was some carbon build up but it came clean easy.

To clean the upper I used my 12 gauge shot gun Tico Tool with some spray Break-Free CLP.

The one step I was hesitant on was the Firing Pin Removal... It went as smooth as I could have hoped for...I was concerned at 1st because the term move freely within the bolt is mentioned in the manual. I felt the pin was rather tight and did not move very freely. But when during Assembly the manual states I quote. Push the Firing Pin several times to make sure it moves freely.It should be quite stiff but move in and out without getting stuck. :) So I did that correct !!

The Assembly went smooth and the Barrel,Gas Tube , Bolt ,Operating Rod,upper and Lower all Fit together so Easy a Mechanically challenged person like myself can handle it with no issues.

So.....Take your XCR apart and get to know what makes this one of the Finest Weapons of our Time !!

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Hi, thanks for the great feedback on disassembling and cleaning the XCR, adds a lot to my confidence in doing it myself as I'm kind of mechanically challenged. A quick question on firing pin assembly, when you inserted the Firing Pin and spring back into the bolt, did you have to use a new roll pin ? I'm just wondering if I should order some new roll pins before disassembling/cleaning my XCR.

Thanks Much,
Jess
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I used the same pin.... It went back in fine with a few taps of a small hammer
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just wanted to familiarize myself with my weapon.. As I stated in my post I own a bunch of Sig Pistols and I think they are very easy to disassemble and clean so I wanted to get the same confidence I have stripping down and cleaning my Sigs.

The Gun was not very dirty in fact the only area that had carbon build up was the Gas Tube and that cleaned up pretty easy.The barrel came out very easy and I can see how east it is to change calibers.

;D
 

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Good to know. I have the armorer's DVD and all the tools and also detail strip my Sigs. They're dirt simple compared to the fun I had putting a Vorquartsen trigger setup in my Ruger Mark III. You almost need a 3D CadCam system to visualize how it all goes back together.

I'm planning to get the new adjustable 5 setting gas valve as soon as Robinson puts them out and was wondering how hard it will be to get the flashhider and old valve off the barrel.
 

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First of all congratulations.Everyone should do this several times a year to remain proficient at it.Firing pin removal is not necessary very often,of course it depends on how many rounds and what type you use.to clean the firing pin channel pretty well without disassembly you can use Remington action clean or something similar and shoot it down the firing pin channel,this stuff is high pressure so be sure to use glasses and old cloths, and do it outside.Be sure to re lube after doing this because it degreases everything.
I was wondering did you clean the gas block? As far as function goes it's much more important than either the piston or the gas tube.A dirty tube(from fouling) will probably never affect reliability,but you don't want to block the holes in it either or let it corrode.To clean the gas block I use foaming bore cleaner and let it set for about 30 minutes to work the use the Action cleaner behind it to jet out any residue,Q-tips help too for sludge removal.then oil(lightly) and then clean the bore.If you clean the bore first your just blowing nasties back in there and you'll have to do it again.
I wish I knew the roll pin dimensions but miss Terra the XCR mistress(lol) should be able to hook you right up.Hope it helps. :2cents:
 

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I've got a wire brush in my grinding wheel to clean the piston head. Take two seconds and she's good as new! Works great on AR bolts too!
 

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Whatever brand I currently find the cheapest...lol...it's currently Gunslick,but I've used Hoppes and both have worked really well.
That's a good idea m118sb,one of those wire wheels for your Dremal work work too,if you don't have a wire wheel for your grinder,or if you don't have a grinder!....lol.I usually just dab cleaning fluid inside the hole in the top let it set,and if it's unusually bad I'll wrap a solvent soaked patch around the head and let it set for at least a half hour.It's unlikely to effect function very much anyway as long as the inside of the head will go over the nipple on the gas block.
 

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DTOM, I've bought two or three of those little dremel bits and I'll be dogged if I haven't lost every darn one of them! They do work great, just like you said, especially getting into the little places. DON'T use them on an aluminum part though!!! I don't even think they're recommended on steel either, gun parts wise, but after using them to clean up M249 and M240B gas regulators after training for so many years I don't think it does much harm. It'll polish off the finish if it has any but that's aesthetics.


I strip my rifle and scrub it down after every range trip, old habits. I'd recommend a good detail strip to at least hose out the lower at least once a year. If nothing else you can PMCS your trigger group for cracks or problems.
 

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Does the gas block really need cleaning? Think about the amount of pressure going through that tiny space.I would imagine it would be sort of "self cleaning"... ie, I bet 20K psi is going to blow out whatever is in there. Kind of like the AR's gas tube.
 

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I'm sure that the carbon can only get "so high" in the system. In my humble opinion it's a variable that can be removed, so why not?
 

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Looks like you have the older style gas system. Anyone have a pic of the new style gas system on the inside? I am curious to see what it looks like (on the inside that is).
 

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Sure the pressures are high,but carbon can still build there.I do it every thousand rounds or so at least,if for nothing else than corrosion protection.
 
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