[SigsRule]

Playing around with different muzzlebrakes and flash hiders for both my XCR and FAL has me wondering about the pros and cons of Peel versus Crush washers.

I was told that a Crush washer would give a full rotation if needed but I haven't found that possible with my limited ability to clamp barrels. Peel washers did work, but my ability to slice just the right amount of thickness off was marginal and I felt like I needed more torque before the brake was already aligned.

 

[magikbullet]

my vote is for crush washers when possible.

try sticking a crush washer in the freezer for an hour before you put your muzzle device on. That'll show the thing who's boss ;D

 

[aziator]

Crush all the way. i think that the peel washer is old tech and the crush works a little better for us. plus, if you ever have to remove then re-install you don't have to worry about how much to peel off the washer, just get a new crush washer and slap her on.

 

[SigsRule]

Sounds good, but I thought I read somewhere that if you are using a can you have to go with the peel washer to get a good seal.

For some reason the muzzle brakes from PWS for the 5.56 (1/2x28tpi) come with a peel washer but the ones for my FAL (5/8x24tpi - had the muzzle re-cut) come with the crush washer.

My problem with a crush washer is clamping the barrel tight enough to get enough torque on the muzzle brake to get it aligned properly (the logo on PWS are supposed to be facing up, although I suppose facing down would work too since they look symetrical). I'm using a 5" vice with plastic jaw protectors and the barrel just spins when I crank on it. I read somewhere that gunsmiths use brass protectors but haven't seen any and it seems like you'd need a different set for each barrel diameter anyway.

 

[admin]

Get the 6" vise. As you can see in my gas block video it works pretty well.

Also, make sure you clamp the part that's with an even diameter (away from the front of the barrel end) that way more surface area is being used and you'll get a better grip. When I clamped the front part of the barrel it would spin for me when I tried to get the flash hider off. But with the same amount of clamping force when I clamped the other end of the barrel it worked like charm.

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

I prefer crush washers... If you have a good vise, you can crank down pretty far.

 

[gunner69]

Think I will side with Terra on this one. Who says you don't "peel" too much, then have to start over? :2cents:

 

[MickeyC]

Crush as it allows a more exact fitment. Peel washers tend to get you within x degrees. Crush washers allow you to be exact.

 

[SigsRule]

I didn't try Lex's suggestion about clamping the other end of the barrel. I'll give that a try as soon as I get home (if that sounds familiar it's because I've used it before being on the road 4 weeks out of 6).

 

[V]

I would recommend peal or proper thickness graded washers available in varying
thicknesses to allow proper torquing to final position.

The problem with crush washers is that they may crush unevenly throwing the muzzle device
out of alignment to the end of barrel having an adverse affect on accuracy. :2cents:

 

[SigsRule]

That was probably the reason that the suppressor manufacturers suggested peel washers.

 

[1redgmc]

I've had better luck with removal installation of flash hider while the barrel is still installed.

I've never used peel - but I've never had an issue with crush thus far.

 

[admin]

Just in case, diagram of what to clamp:

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

this thread makes me hungry for oranges. ???