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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
was in the cold and drizzle today in IN at the range. Was into about 90 rds when the trigger didn't reset. I thought at first that since I was shooting wolf in the cold and wet it just didn't cycle well enough...BUT...no.

The Hammer resets, following the trigger through its range of motion it fails to pull the sear? away and let the hammer fall.

I am not a AR specialist, nor do I claim to have this trigger group/design figured out.

Please advise what I need to do/not do? This is a new one on me. I was able to work with the hammer a few times, by sliding the sear? back and around the catch so that the trigger pull would actually release the hammer. The rifle fired about 7 more rounds and then the same issue stopped the trigger function again. I ceased to fire on this 2nd incident.

Is there a thread I have missed on this?
 

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Take off the upper,then manually cock the hammer,then(using your hand)while making sure the hammer does not strike the frame,pull the trigger.Does then hammer fall every time you do this? If not there may be something broken or an obstruction in/amongst the trigger assembly interfering with the mechanical movement of the hammer/trigger(sear) engagement.It could be dirt or debris under the tail of the trigger near or between the tail and the safety,casing a sort of false safety,in other words it interferes with the tail of the trigger causing a similar feel to it being "on safe".



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK. I think you are on to something. the safety would not completely engage, I just assumed... well, there you go! I assumed. I will strip it down and scour over it for junk of a sort. I was just thinking uh oh... another 'tech issue'. Will report what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I looked into this. Cleaned the group decently enough to see well. I did not SEE anything to indicate blockage of the trigger in its range of motion. When the hammer is cocked, pulling the trigger does not release the hammer nor move the sear enough in its motion to bring the hammer into the 2nd stage. I am confused.
 

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Is the hammer coming off the disconnector when the trigger is released?
The disconnector is the big hook that sticks out above the top of the lower.

How to test this: Cock the hammer, pull the trigger (keep pulling the trigger), cock the hammer again, release the trigger. Now push the back of the trigger towards the barrel. Do you hear a click? This is the hammer coming off the disconnector.
 

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sounds like your disconnect is not releasing like it should. Cock the hammer back, and slowly release, watching the drag on the disconnect's meeting with the hammer surface. If the disconnect is not releasing the hammer at all, that's where your problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
you both are right. As I stated before, I don't pretend to know this trigger group. (I should know it... no excuses--this gun makes you lazy b/c it works well) That is what is happening. The disconnector seems to hook on to the hammer and not be pulled off of it so as to release the hammer to fire. Any ideas? Should I get some sanding paper for metals and every so lightly 'touch' it up? WHen I pull the trigger the disconnect moves just a little bit, but not enough to clear the hammer surface.

Everything else in the group seems to be functioning correctly, minus the safety (safety does not completely go to 's'. How would this tie into the equation? I do foresee myself pulling the safety out and trying out the problem.
 

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I find this odd that this is happening at this high a round count but....I don't think your trigger is resetting.Take your upper off again so you can see what happening and....what happens when you push forward on the trigger? Does the hammer snap forward a little,then you can pull the trigger and the hammer will fall? If that works you may need to try this:
The hook on the disconnector is hanging on the shelf on the hammer.Take a very fine file,or sandpaper(will take longer)and touch the hook on the disconnector,notice how it's a little sharp? Then the little shelf on the hammer,where the hook is hanging on.The key here is LIGHTLY,you have to remove some material yes,but just be carefull to not take to much.This is much easier to do if you can take the trigger assembly parts out of the rifle.
The reason the safety wont move is similar to why it won't engage when the rifle isn't cocked,the safety in nothing but a cylinder with a flat machined into it.When the round part of the cylinder is against the tail on the trigger it's on safe.when you move the safety to off your putting the flat of the safety over the tail of the trigger allowing movement,because now there is a free space above the tail,the trigger can pivot.So,when the trigger is not resetting the tail is in the wrong place to allow the safety to rotate to where the full cylinder portion of it will stop movement of the trigger,or put it back on safe.the same as when when the hammer is down(uncocked) and you can't engage the safety because it puts the tail of the trigger where it won't allow the safety to move.



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touch up the disconnect hook and hammer sear surfaces lightly with a hammer. Sounds like your parts are wearing strangely. Sometimes as the parts wear in burrs can be created. Check for anything like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sounds like your disconnect is not releasing like it should. Cock the hammer back, and slowly release, watching the drag on the disconnect's meeting with the hammer surface. If the disconnect is not releasing the hammer at all, that's where your problem is.

Terra, after further inspecting the trigger group I have noticed that the disconnector has a sharp point on it. About half of the disconnector face is contacting the 'hammer shelf'. I can see how this would cause a 'drag' issue and cause to much friction to allow the disconnector to free up enough to release the hammer. I don't feel comfortable working on this thing the way that it is. Should I send you pics of this to illustrate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK. I cannot get my camera to focus on so close a picture. will try to describe better.

on the front face of the disconnector where it comes in contact with the returning/reseting hammer (as the bolt comes back) there is excessive wear on 1/3 of the face nearest the hammer travel side of the disconnector, but that is it. There is still blueing (untouched) on the other 2/3 of the face. This wear also shows impact effects as well.

On the bottom of the hammer where it comes hits against the disconnector there is indentation where it has been hitting the disconnector unevenly as well. It also shows impact wear on it.

The travel area where the disconnector comes rubs against the the hammer as it is being reset shows 2 different wears areas (there is a 'dip' of sorts in this surface--is this wear the 2nd 'stage' is supposed to be?) Anyways, at the top of the travel-at the point where the disconnector will reach the point to 'hook' onto the hammer shelf, that point seems to at a higher elevation than the rest of the hammer shelf itself...

to me that would hinder the disconnector from traveling back and slipping over the 'shelf' to drop to stage 2.

I am considering lightly working this... considering.

But, the other issue... this trigger does not have 2 stages anymore. There is just one stage, and that is if the trigger resets right. How much is the match trigger? Could I send this thing in have have the match put in it and the worn components replaced? This is the 2nd time I have had this thing sent in. I think I am done with this group. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
anyone on here that can help? or should I just send the lower back and pay for some upgrade or trigger job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I am pleading the 5th, only b/c I don't know myself. I was shooting wolf in the rain, in about 10 degrees running a couple different drills. The barrel was creating 'steam' from the rain if that gives a clue...?

Sorry, like I emailed you... I am a hick that is my excuse. And I was bored in Indiana...
 
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