[MadDogDan]

The LOP on the normal aluminum folder was a little too long for me at 13". RA now makes an "entry" sized folder with a LOP of 12" which I had planned on getting. I figured while I was waiting to actually go to RA and pick one up I would experiment on mine. I made the overall LOP 11.75" and it is perfect so I figure I will keep it as is and save the money for the new match trigger and paddle ambi-safety when they are available. I like this length so much I probably will not even bother with the new adjustable stock when it comes out as the height of the top tube is perfect for me and I wouldn't even take advantage of the adjustable features.

It is snowing out so good pictures will have to wait for a few days. Here is how I did it. The normal stock is held together not only with roll pins but it is JB welded as well. Take a hacksaw and cut the stock at the hinge/bracket side leaviing half inch tube nubs sticking out. Drive the roll pin out and use vice-grips to torque the nubs off. remove the foam sleeve of the upper tube. Use a square and pencil to mark the tubes at the ultimate length. Use masking tape as a guide wraping the tubes at that length. Hacksaw the tubes about 1/8" away from the tape. Use a belt sander to take the tubes down to the masking tape guide making sure they are square with the top tube. Reinstall the bracket, clamp together, and drill new holes completely through the upper and lower tubes. Before taking the bracket back off mark the upper tube at the joint. Measure the upper tube from the inside edge of the butpad to the pencil marke. Now cut the foam sleeve to length. Slip the foam sleeve onto the upper tube, put some JB weld on the inside of the two bracked wells and put the bracket half and tubular stock half together. Drive the roll pin back in and you are finished.

It should now look just like it came from the RA factory only shorter. Pictures to follow.

MadDog arty:

 

[meckr]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

I hope you took pics during the process, because I don't understand at all what you are talking about. I guess I am trying to picture what you are saying in my head, but I just can't for some reason. Maybe it is just me. In any case, it is good to know that if one is unhappy with the LOP of their stock, then they can customize it as needed with what sounds like not too much work.

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

oh, me. I can't wait for the "OMG TERRA I SCREWED UP MY STOCK!!!" emails and calls soon to follow... ;D

 

[WatchoutforStobor]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

You could torque the nubs out of the bondo joint? Does anyone know if heat softens bondo??

 

[Underground]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

From the JBWeld website:
"When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold."

 

[Mastiff]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

If you heated that stock up to 600 degrees you might end up doing some damage :duh:

It is made of aluminum after all.

 

[aziator]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

I figured it wouldn't be that difficult to do this but I was concerned about breaking the JB weld loose. I want to see those pics.

 

[dont_tread_on_me]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

Sounds good,and not terribly complicated.Glad to hear it worked out for you.

 

[MadDogDan]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

I didn't take any pics of the process as I wanted to get the job done (1.5 hours) this morning. It is still snowing so pictures of the finished product will have to wait as every time I try to take indoor pics they come out like crap, but the stock looks just like it came from RA that way. You cannot tell the difference in the quality of work and wouldn't know unless I told you that I shortened it. The JB weld doesn't look like it is the element that holds the tubes to the bracket. The roll pin takes up all the force of recoil and abuse you might give the stock. The JB weld looks to be more like a "bedding" agent that fills up any "voids" between the stock tubes and the bracket and butt piece. All of the joints have roll pins.

MadDog :2cents:

 

[dont_tread_on_me]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

The JB weld doesn't look like it is the element that holds the tubes to the bracket. The roll pin takes up all the force of recoil and abuse you might give the stock. The JB weld looks to be more like a "bedding" agent that fills up any "voids" between the stock tubes and the bracket and butt piece. All of the joints have roll pins

+1,I'm sure it helps the stock from becoming loose,It might not come apart,just have a rattly,or loose feel.Keeps the whole unit feeling tight and secure,and probaby helps support the roll pin holes from becoming enlarged due to continued handing.

 

[DSM]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

I did the same thing to my stock awhile back and it is easier to do than explain it so if you're looking to make this mod, just take your time and you'll do fine. I can't recall having any trouble at all with disassembling my stock. After drifting out the roll pin it just pulled apart. I could not remove that darn foam rubber sleeve though! I used a razor blade resting on a block at the height I wanted it cut to and then rotated the tube around the blade for a straight and fairly clean cut. Once reassembled you really can't tell anyways.

 

[MadDogDan]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

m118: The trick I used to get the foam sleeve off the top tube was to take a can of compressed air (the kind you get a Office Depot for cleaning computer keyboards), stick the air tube under the foam, and squeeze the foam sleeve on the opposite end. Shoot air between the aluminum tube and the sleeve. The foam sleeve will "baloon" out enough to easily slide it off. This works well in removing motorcycle grips also.

My explaination probably leaves something to be desired.

MadDog :duh:

 

[aziator]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

Maddog, that is a perfect explanation. When I worked in a mountain bike shop we used our air compressor to do the same thing with grips. When you put them on dry they do much better (we also used hairspray when putting them back on to give them a little bit of stick). I am glad you brought this up, I don't know if I would have thought of this for this occasion. Another great reason for the air compressor.

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

That's how we get them on here. An air hose.

 

[MadDogDan]

Re: Chopped My Folding Stock Down

The snow melted so I was finally able to take some outdoor pictures. If you didn't know what the factory length is supposed to look like you couldn't tell I even modified it. The LOP is now 11.75" down from it's original 13". I also removed that goofy built in loop on top of the back portion (butt pad end) of the stock for a sling. Since I am left handed I made a small extension loop out of 550 cord and heat shrink to custom fit my single point sling.

MadDog :jumpingonfire:

 

[Ashraam]

Nice work, Dan. Looks like it came right off the shelf that way.

 

[meckr]

See now I get what you were explaining. It all seems to make more sense now that I can see the end results. But I have one question still. Where is the JB Weld located? I assume it is where the tubes and the plates meet?

:

 

[MadDogDan]

XCRFan: The JB weld is swirled around the inside of the two holes on the hinge/bracket side that the tubes slip into. The roll pin is then driven into the bracket from the bottom binding the whole assembly together. The JB weld seems to act as a gap filler around the stock tubes so there is no chance of any play or looseness of the tubes due to torque stresses.

MadDog :rockon:

 

[variablebinary]

Nice work. The shorter LOP does wonders for handling. Changing to the entry stock was one of the best upgrades I made to my XCR

 

[Martens]

I just tried the directions as described and it took right at 45 minutes to get it cut, the stubs removed, and ground square. I didn't have a belt sander so I clamped a file in a vise and worked it by hand.

I started my cut a 1/4 inch from the hinge and it tapered down to 3/16 at the bottom. When I ground it square, I only took it down enough to get it square. Doing it this tight to the mounting block, I still had no trouble twisting out the nubs and ended up with a 12 1/8 LOP. I point out my measurements as I would say as long as you could go doing the method Maddogdan describes would probably 12 1/4 .

I didn't drill the hole for the roll pin as I don't have a drill press and did not want to get it off center. I'll have the gunsmith in town drill it this morning hopefully.

I am 6'2 210 and find this about the perfect length. In a T shirt it is quite comfortable (maybe, and I mean maybe just a touch short). It is perfect with soft body armor and very doable in level 3 armor. It feels like a difference gun. With the 7/8 shorter stock it feels so much smaller and lighter. It's like I cut a half pound of weight of the gun. With a 14.5 inch barrel and a pinned hider I have a gun that is 33 5/8 inch OAL, that folds to 26 1/8. It makes for a super tight package. I am actually suprised that the 12 inch LOP is not the standard length with the 13 inch as an option as I think the 12 inch would be more comfortable and versatile for more people. My wife is 5'6 and found the shorter stock comfortable.

I'll post pics after I get it pinned and "glued" back together.

BTW the compressed air trick works great to get the foam off.