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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you know I just got a pof .308. I want to shoot it and my buddy insists that I break it in like a precision gun to keep it accurate. But it's a battle rifle so I don't agree, I just say shoot it. What would you do?
 

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I'd still break it in gently for the first 50 or so rounds. Apparently the treatment process at POF means you can just go and shoot. Apparently the chrome lined barrel is as smooth as a SS version and the rifle is capable of very good accuracy.

But a couple of hours break-in for the barrel on a $2500 gun is worth the time spent.

Just take your XCR down and blat off a magazine or two in between shots with the POF.
 

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I say shoot her and let her rip.
 

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I say shoot it, unless the manufacturer specifically tells you that it needs to be broke in. From what I have heard about the POFs, they are good to go out of the box.
 

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It's both a Fun & Battle Rifle...... clean it, shoot & enjoy, clean and oil it. Call in Sick, and shoot and clean it again. Both you and the rifle will feel better for it. :duh: P.S. Of course your pocket book may not agree. :-X
 
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Chrome plating is harder than any steel barrel ever made. this means that if you have a steel barrel that a break-in procedure may be beneficial to accuracy. do it if you wish.

however, if the barrel is Chrome lined then there is no special shoot-in procedure that will do anything to help your gun. NONE. the chrome is simply too hard to benefit from any shoot-clean-shoot-clean regimen. dont bother.


this is good advice across the board for barrel break-in.
 

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Chrome plating is harder than any steel barrel ever made. this means that if you have a steel barrel that a break-in procedure may be beneficial to accuracy. do it if you wish.

however, if the barrel is Chrome lined then there is no special shoot-in procedure that will do anything to help your gun. NONE. the chrome is simply too hard to benefit from any shoot-clean-shoot-clean regimen. dont bother.


this is good advice across the board for barrel break-in.

Good info Jack. I myself never know what to think on this subject. I hear SS barrels are different than Chromelined barrels. All the so called "match" shooters seems to think that you should carefullly and meticulously break in a SS barrel and I hear not to use copper brushes.

I am beginning this whole break in thing is just a crock of crap even for SS barrels. I used the 110 round break in method that took a good 4 hours, and my SS AR-10 is no more accurate than my SS M1A that only used a 10 minute 10 round break in method.

Also funny how copper brushes that bends and moves slowly will destroy a SS barrel but a copper bullet does not? :D

You bring up good points, if a barrel is lined and strong enough to resist corrosion and heat is expected to go 20,000 rounds, you better believe whatever break in is pretty much useless. If break in does help a rifle, I am willing to bet it will not last that long.
 

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I would think the only parts that need a break in are moving parts in the reciever. Barrels should be good to go from the factory.
 

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I would think the only parts that need a break in are moving parts in the reciever. Barrels should be good to go from the factory.
I also agree. Copper is a very soft metal when compared to SS so I would think the copper brushes would have zero effect on the barrel. Copper jacketed bullets may have more of an effect due to the heat/pressure and friction generated when the bullet travels down the barrel but it is still very minimal.

When I bought my FAL, I was told by the factory (DSA) to use the shoot and clean after each shot for the first 10 shots. For the next 10 shots, clean after every second shot. They said it was to seal the "pores" and smooth out the microscopic burrs in the barrel. I ended up shooting 100 rounds and cleaned it when I got home. My FAL shoots like a champ despite not following the recommended break-in. I have never been told by any factory rep other than DSA to break in a barrel (SS or chrome lined). So combine this with what you guys are saying just makes me think this is more urban legend than fact. Maybe their are special cases but for the most part, I just don't see it applying to the average shooter. Just my :2cents:
 

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SS barrels need break-in, any significant manufacturer will tell you that. Chrome-lined barrels usually don't benefit from a break-in period.

I tend to follow the procedure on every new rifle, no matter what. I do see a benefit on my SS barrels and my Chrone Moly barrels.
 

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The late Gale McMillan - who knew a thing or two about precision rifles - said that the routine break-in wasn't necessary.

My M25 went straight from the weapons support van (where it had just finished being built) to the firing line, the first 22 rounds down the tube took 7th place at All Fleet. That included one shot that poked the spindle of the spotting disk out at 600. Those, I suppose, were the break-in rounds. The groups have loosened up since then, but 5000 or so rounds down the tube will do that to a rifle ;D The barrel is a Kreiger, double cryo'd and turned by Gene Barnett.

But for a chrome lined barrel? I wouldn't even give it the vaguest amount of consideration - I'd just run the puppy 100%.
 

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Yeah, Google "McMillan" and "barrel Break-in" to see what he had to say about it. Maybe things have changed since then but he says that it was initially thought up to wear out the barrel faster by cleaning it more. It was an interesting read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good stuff. I think I know what I need to know. I'll be shooting it Thursday and or Friday if my schedule lays out ok. I'll keep you all posted on how it goes. I'll probably take the 7.62 XCR as well for some bench shooting.
 

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Yeah, Google "McMillan" and "barrel Break-in" to see what he had to say about it. Maybe things have changed since then but he says that it was initially thought up to wear out the barrel faster by cleaning it more. It was an interesting read.
He specifically mentioned not to use stainless steel or nylon brushes and abrasive bore cleaner which makes perfect sense. Copper brushes are ok since copper is very soft (35) compared to SS (250). Does anyone know what grade of SS is used in barrels?

Never mind, it is 416 which is much harder than your typical SS. Rifles with shallower grooves shoot tighter groups but wear out faster. Maybe that is what McMillian was considering with regards to competition barrels and cleaning????
 

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Badger barrels recommend break -in. so does Kreiger.
 
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