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What I would do, and I am open to be corrected, is remove one bolt at a time using the correct size wrench, clean the threads and replace it using the blue loctite. After you have replaced this bolt (don't tighten down all the way, but just so it's snug) do the same to the other bolt. When both bolts are replaced and snugged down, go ahead and finish tightening them to the correct torque. This way the ejector shouldn't move from the correct position when replacing the bolts.

Any thoughts any one?
 

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Then I will have to ask.... what is the correct torque and how does one measure the lbs of torque
on such small bolts ?

I have never touched either of my ejectors and they seem very tight. I just don't want to have one of those OH SHIT moments . :duh:
 

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Well,

That is a very good question, and I think the correct torque setting can only be answered by RobArm. You can purchase a torque wrench but you probably won't be able to get it in there. When you consider that you are screwing a steel bolt into an alloy frame, I would say you have to be very careful not to strip the threads. They don't have to be that tight to hold with loctite as I think it starts working due to the absence of air and addition of pressure. I don't know if you have noticed, loctite stays on a paste form until you use it on a thread that's been torqued down.

I think I read Alex had stated that if you screw the bolt down till it stops and then turn it another 70 degrees, that is the correct torque. I either read that or I thought I read that in a dream. It's not clear to me! :headscratch:
 

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I thought I heard or read that Rob Arms is using Loctite on all the ejectors on the newer production guns.

Can anyone verify that?

I have a 3 week old that I rather not screw with if it's already been done.
 

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I have never torqued any thing on my XCR and nothing has ever come loose. My definition of tight enough is turn it until the handle on the wrench starts to flex. I blue loctite every thing but the barrel nut and gas valve nut.
 
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