[Lou1187]

My ejector bolts are nice and snug however I would like to Loctite the bolt, just in case. What is the best way to remove them What tool are you guys using? Thank you.

 

[Aussie Arms]

What I would do, and I am open to be corrected, is remove one bolt at a time using the correct size wrench, clean the threads and replace it using the blue loctite. After you have replaced this bolt (don't tighten down all the way, but just so it's snug) do the same to the other bolt. When both bolts are replaced and snugged down, go ahead and finish tightening them to the correct torque. This way the ejector shouldn't move from the correct position when replacing the bolts.

Any thoughts any one?

 

[va_plinker]

Aussie,

That is exactly the procedure I used and it worked perfectly for me.

I'm not sure how long the blue loctite will hold, but being new to it I only used it sparingly. I also didn't want a blue upper

 

[Ranly]

So as it seems to be agreed, and as I've been told no questions a stuipid question.

 

[Aussie Arms]

The only stupid question is the one that not asked! :duh:

 

[Ranly]

Thats it! what he said...

 

[tzoid]

Then I will have to ask.... what is the correct torque and how does one measure the lbs of torque
on such small bolts ?

I have never touched either of my ejectors and they seem very tight. I just don't want to have one of those OH SHIT moments . :duh:

 

[Aussie Arms]

Well,

That is a very good question, and I think the correct torque setting can only be answered by RobArm. You can purchase a torque wrench but you probably won't be able to get it in there. When you consider that you are screwing a steel bolt into an alloy frame, I would say you have to be very careful not to strip the threads. They don't have to be that tight to hold with loctite as I think it starts working due to the absence of air and addition of pressure. I don't know if you have noticed, loctite stays on a paste form until you use it on a thread that's been torqued down.

I think I read Alex had stated that if you screw the bolt down till it stops and then turn it another 70 degrees, that is the correct torque. I either read that or I thought I read that in a dream. It's not clear to me! :headscratch:

 

[tzoid]

I thought I heard or read that Rob Arms is using Loctite on all the ejectors on the newer production guns.

Can anyone verify that?

I have a 3 week old that I rather not screw with if it's already been done.

 

[Aussie Arms]

Give Chuck at RobArm a call as he is one of the guys putting these things together.

I do believe that they are using loctite during assembly.

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

yes, all ejector screws are loctited on.

just use any little wrench that will fit on them to remove them.

 

[tzoid]

Great

then my Nuts and bolts won't come loose and fall off ;D

 

[SigsRule]

The video they've just posted on their website says tighten the ejector bolts until tight then add another 40 degrees. Still with loctite, it wouldn't have to be that tight to hold.

 

[gunner69]

Damn I am happy........ I haven't lost my nuts OR bolts. Merry Christmas. :machinegun2:

 

[Bob R]

What ser # was the loctite started, any way to find out? Or date? By knowing this we could possbly stop some people from taking theirs apart when there is no need to.

thanks

bob

 

[TerraShrewsbury]

they should all have loctite. never heard of them being put on without.

 

[LoadedDrum]

I have never torqued any thing on my XCR and nothing has ever come loose. My definition of tight enough is turn it until the handle on the wrench starts to flex. I blue loctite every thing but the barrel nut and gas valve nut.