I can get scans of the .mil zero targets. The M4 zero for iron sights should be about the same for the XCR's sight radius. We used to use the old M16A1 BZO targets, well, because we once goofed when we ordered them and ended up with a couple, two, three or ten thousand of them. But they mirrored the M68's adjustments pretty close. Can also get the time fire and slow fire silhouettes scaned too. These are 25m reduced targets yet so good to plink or practice. Our range doesn't like folks to use a silhouette except in IPSC/IDPA stuff. Shoot me a line if you're interested...
Here is a .mil zero target made for an eotech. You can easily print this and us eit for iron sights or any other sight you want. This is identical to the regular targets we use, just with some added stuff for an Eotech.
Great targets, Thanks for posting them. Too bad the range I use (Clark Bros.) only lets you use their targets ammo, etc. Can't blame them, the NRA is near but is expensive.
Yep, Clark Bros in Opal. I used to hunt about 1 mile from there. I think there are now three hundred Ryland Homes on phase one of the old "farm". I heard the dentist that owned it got 30 million for 400 some acres. He was a friend of my Uncle's. Haven't been hunting since I moved back East.
Hey did I read in another post about you shooting with Aussie? He once told me if He got a pdw or class III gun from Robarms he would get the local forum members together to beta test It. Hold him to it next time you see him.
I will do that! We've done some serious lead slingin' on several occasions, and with his SOT status - getting one should be no problem - but I think he'll need a letter to order one.
VA_Plinker has also participated in a few of our better sessions. ;D
Anyone have some intersting or innovative ideas for cheap DIY moving targets?
One place we shoot often has a hill behind us, I've thought about putting balloons inside old tires and rolling them across the field. Or a clothesline type setup with extra rope and some pulleys to be able to pull silhouettes between the poles or anchor points.
You should consider looking at a steel auto-popper. They are stationary - but with a 4" primary strike zone. I think you will find that your skills are greatly increased with a smaller stationary target - THEN move on to targets that are mobile.
Mike Gibson Manufacturing makes a nice armor plate auto-popper, and I fabricated my own base out of flat steel (cost me $40 to make two bases).
What is nice about these is that you don't have to walk down range to reset them, and you know immediately when you've scored a hit (or miss).
I bought three and put them up in sequence. I can put them side by side - or at different distances. When I take them to the range, everyone always says "Now why didn't I think of that?"
I also bought a .22 rimfire version, which is a thinner gauge armor plate. It is incredible fun, and they are all easily portable.
An additional bonus with an auto-popper is that you can set them up out at most any distance and use them as sniper targets. They will withstand literally thousands of multiple/repeated hits with a 5.56 round - no problem - and they sell additional (heavier armor plate) sniper targets for the bigger calibers. They have additional selections of reactive targets - all of which can be HUGE fun.
Oh, and you simply rattle can the target faces before you go shoot to whatever distinguishing color you want.
A couple forums have posts from guys that use balloons and remote control toys from Wal-Mart. Not exactly free - but cheap. You just need someone to control it while you shoot at the balloons.
The Gibson auto-poppers are under $100 and while that might seem pricey at first - consider the fact that you can shoot them indefinitely and that all components are replaceable.
Let us know what you work out. We'll be interested to know what setup you use and what works best.
For the folks in the Northeast USA, they are made somewhere near the Norristown, PA.
I insisted on a 1/2" AR500 target. One of my buddies shot a 12 ga. slug at it from about 14 yrds. NOT recommended! Lead splatter this close could be dangerous! It left a wide but shallow crater on the plate.
Some folks at our gun club go down to the railroad tracks and pick up the thick steel plates the tracks sit on. When they replace the ties or spikes they leave them on the side of the tracks most of the time, around here anyways. They use some kind of shop fashioned hanging device and tripod. Now they're shooting either lead or the plated bullets mostly, and I don't believe they are rated for anything other than to support a railroad track, but for the price of "free" they seem to take a serious beating. Danger close for steel at our range is 25m, and shooting those or the purpose built speedwells, etc I've never had bullet spash on the line.
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