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XCR-L Competition Gas Valve

1058 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Northern
I am concerned that the recoil of XCR may rotate the hidden gas valve on its own. Do y'all have anything to ease that concern?

The Type 3 buried gas valve does not feature a Gas Valve Detent, purposefully so the valve can be adjusted without stripping the gun. Noted. However, in the XCR Overview video at 1:28, the valve turns really easily. So easily, in fact, that it almost appears loose without the detent. I wouldn't want my gas setting to change randomly as I'm firing the gun, but I would prefer the extended handguard offered by the "Competition" model.

Please advise.

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Never had a issue with that, it's not hard to adjust but it does take a deliberate effort to rotate the dial.. and even with medium man hands it still requires me to use a tool like bullet tip or Allen key etc.
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It's keyed, bro. Calm down. :) Even if it loosens, it can only move forward. That said, YES....when you get the gun, make sure you tighten the set screw in case the factory forgot to fully torque it. To my knowledge, we've only had one member have it come loose from the factory setting. And in his case, it did crack the dial. Not the end of the world but completely avoidable with a good once over of fasteners occasionally.

EDIT Sorry...I didn't realize you were talking about the detent for the dial. Thought you meant the gas block itself. That's what I get for just looking at the pic and reading a few lines.

Yeah, if you're that concerned you could always go to McMaster Carr and get a chrome silicone spring with higher coil resistance or length to put more tension on it. I have something like 7 XCRs with the Type 3 gas system. Have NEVER had one unintentionally change settings. ***
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I have one of these on my 300blk never had a problem.


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It's keyed, bro. Calm down. :) Even if it loosens, it can only move forward. That said, YES....when you get the gun, make sure you tighten the set screw in case the factory forgot to fully torque it. To my knowledge, we've only had one member have it come loose from the factory setting. And in his case, it did crack the dial. Not the end of the world but completely avoidable with a good once over of fasteners occasionally.

EDIT Sorry...I didn't realize you were talking about the detent for the dial. Thought you meant the gas block itself. That's what I get for just looking at the pic and reading a few lines.

Yeah, if you're that concerned you could always go to McMaster Carr and get a chrome silicone spring with higher coil resistance or length to put more tension on it. I have something like 7 XCRs with the Type 3 gas system. Have NEVER had one unintentionally change settings. ***
Would you be able to link the me exact spring for which to look? I imagine I'm looking for a compression spring, but I'd have no clue what the dimensions for it should be.
I have one of these on my 300blk never had a problem.


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Does the 300blk supersonic kick as much as regular 7.62x39?
Never had a issue with that, it's not hard to adjust but it does take a deliberate effort to rotate the dial.. and even with medium man hands it still requires me to use a tool like bullet tip or Allen key etc.
So you're saying that the amount of force, perpendicular to the bore, required to overcome the coefficient of friction on the valve far exceeds any such force resultant to recoil of the gun at even the highest settings. That is good to know. Thanks!
Would you be able to link the me exact spring for which to look? I imagine I'm looking for a compression spring, but I'd have no clue what the dimensions for it should be.
I have no idea what size it is either. You'll have to pull yours, mic it for height and wire thickness. If I were concerned about this non-issue, I'd probably select a chrome silicone spring, though as I'm not a metallurgist, I can't say if that's the "best" spring for heat cycling a gas block is going to see. They are good for cycling, but no idea what effect heat will have.
Does the 300blk supersonic kick as much as regular 7.62x39?
IME, Wolf 300 BLK 147 grain has MUCH less recoil than Wolf X39 in 122 grain. MARKEDLY less. And...it hits steel with much less authority. I was surprised by this b/c 300 BLK and X39 are supposed to be very ballistically similar. For reference: the X39 had a 9" bbl and the 300 was out of a 9.5".

EDIT To be fair...I don't know if my Wolf 300 BLK ammo was out of a Barnaul plant. The X39 was. And IME, Barnaul is the hottest/most reliable of the Russian ammo manufacturers.
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So you're saying that the amount of force, perpendicular to the bore, required to overcome the coefficient of friction on the valve far exceeds any such force resultant to recoil of the gun at even the highest settings. That is good to know. Thanks!
Same. I have to use a bullet tip to adjust settings on new dials. I'd think with carbon build up, that's only going to get harder.
I don't know.....maybe, shoot the thing and see if it's actually an issue before you go fixing things that aren't broke. Seems like you're trying real hard to fix a non- issue.

There's a type 3 on the M as well..... think that's got some more recoil than anything in x39
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Does the 300blk supersonic kick as much as regular 7.62x39?
No more like a 5.56.


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I don't know.....maybe, shoot the thing and see if it's actually an issue before you go fixing things that aren't broke. Seems like you're trying real hard to fix a non- issue.

There's a type 3 on the M as well..... think that's got some more recoil than anything in x39
I'm just trying to do some market research. ^-^ Most reviews feature the standard model with the exposed valve and detent as opposed to the buried one. I wouldn't want to drop $2.2K on a gun that FTE/FTFs on me (firsthand experience with the x39 Bren).
I don't know.....maybe, shoot the thing and see if it's actually an issue before you go fixing things that aren't broke. Seems like you're trying real hard to fix a non- issue.

There's a type 3 on the M as well..... think that's got some more recoil than anything in x39
And I have a -M with a 12" bbl....no issues with it. Got a 9.5" on order too....don't anticipate any problems there either.
And I have a -M with a 12" bbl....no issues with it. Got a 9.5" on order too....don't anticipate any problems there either.
Sean, do you happen to know what kind of accuracy I should expect out of the XCR-L? I got an "AR47" that's a real tack-driver, and while I know I won't be getting the same tightness of groups from a piston gun, I'd like it if it was almost as accurate. Thoughts?
I'm just trying to do some market research. ^-^ Most reviews feature the standard model with the exposed valve and detent as opposed to the buried one. I wouldn't want to drop $2.2K on a gun that FTE/FTFs on me (firsthand experience with the x39 Bren).
Although there isn't a keyed detent on the buried block, there's still a spring loaded ball bearing putting pressure on it. I'd just make sure the little screw holding the inner and outer parts of the gas plug together is snug. Neither the detent or the spring loaded bearing are in a spot where they'd be exposed to carbon buildup (except perhaps blowby around the gas tube with a can). Haven't seen any issues with my buried gas blocks... OTHER THAN LOSING THAT TINY WASHER OR BALL BEARING JESUS CHRIST IT'S TINY. Really though the only parts I've lost forever have been extractor spring detent cap things, they fly! 1.5moa should be pretty easy with quality factory ammo, better if you find something it likes, or hand load
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Sean, do you happen to know what kind of accuracy I should expect out of the XCR-L? I got an "AR47" that's a real tack-driver, and while I know I won't be getting the same tightness of groups from a piston gun, I'd like it if it was almost as accurate. Thoughts?
If you're looking for sub-MOA, the XCR-L is likely not your gun. There are handloaders here who get it, but most will tell you that with good ammo,when they do their part, 1.25-1.5 MOA is usually average when compared to their AR that gets just under MOA. I don't shoot for tiny size groups and rarely off a bench though I would like to (for practicality purposes) get into shooting 800-1K meters trying to get first round hits on man sized targets with cartridges capable of such (6.5G, .308, etc.)....but I haven't had the time to do so. I do believe this platform is capable of it, but I am currently not.

Although there isn't a keyed detent on the buried block, there's still a spring loaded ball bearing putting pressure on it. I'd just make sure the little screw holding the inner and outer parts of the gas plug together is snug. Neither the detent or the spring loaded bearing are in a spot where they'd be exposed to carbon buildup (except perhaps blowby around the gas tube with a can). Haven't seen any issues with my buried gas blocks... OTHER THAN LOSING THAT TINY WASHER OR BALL BEARING JESUS CHRIST IT'S TINY. Really though the only parts I've lost forever have been extractor spring detent cap things, they fly! 1.5moa should be pretty easy with quality factory ammo, better if you find something it likes, or hand load
Yeah, the amount of carbon is negligible on the ones I've had to pull apart...it's just what's coming around the stem, so basically very little. And yes, that little ball is not only apt to go flying but putting it all back together can be a PITA at times. It's not too bad once you get the technique down though.
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So you're saying that the amount of force, perpendicular to the bore, required to overcome the coefficient of friction on the valve far exceeds any such force resultant to recoil of the gun at even the highest settings. That is good to know. Thanks!
Correct.
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Just adding another voice to say: there’s no way that recoil will cause the dial to move on its own.
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